Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: S. Price/ Jason Lombard
Page Views: 2,232 total · 23/month
Shared By: s.price on Dec 2, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

The crux depends on which local you ask. I think the last 15 feet are the crux while others feel the roof start is it. Climb it and decide for yourself.

Smokin' Stems is a beautiful, right-facing corner with great rock and moves. As the name suggests, it has lots of stemming. The FA was done to the top before the chains.

Location

This is 150 feet past Chocolate Corner, just left of ascent/descent gully and very obvious from trail. The area at bottom of the climb is known as base camp. It is a great place to get out of the rain.

Protection

There is a fixed piton in roof at start, then use small to medium cams & stoppers to chain anchors. The piton was placed during an aid ascent circa 1999.

Photos

s.price
Pagosa Springs
  5.11+
s.price   Pagosa Springs
  5.11+
Thanks to Jason Lombard for installing the chain anchors. Jul 18, 2011
Lombard Lombard
  5.11
Lombard Lombard  
  5.11
The pin was actually placed just before I redpointed the route, on the same day I put the chains at the top. Hands down the best trad route in the canyon with decent gear, soft stone (it is the Piedra after all), and a couple cruxes, depending on who you talk to. And the pin is still solid. Apr 10, 2014
Lombard Lombard
  5.11
Lombard Lombard  
  5.11
And not too sure on the rating. I never did think 11+, but surely 5.11 redpoint. I have seen some solid climbers shake their way up it dancing kind of like Elvis. Apr 10, 2014
s.price
Pagosa Springs
  5.11+
s.price   Pagosa Springs
  5.11+
The pin was there a few years before you redpointed the route.
My FA of this route to the top (before chains) was in 2000. The pin was there and was placed by Alex Barrows or Mike Clinton depending on who you ask. Apr 10, 2014
Lombard Lombard
  5.11
Lombard Lombard  
  5.11
No biggie, Steve, but the same hammer that put the pin in hand drilled the holes for the chains, on the same day. Just clarifying. Maybe the old one came out just like this one might, as we are climbing some of the softest stone around. Hope to see you around. Apr 11, 2014
s.price
Pagosa Springs
  5.11+
s.price   Pagosa Springs
  5.11+
Certainly possible J. We had hangers stolen up there so who knows what else went on. Apr 12, 2014
b hof
Santa Clarita, CA
  5.11
b hof   Santa Clarita, CA
  5.11
Save some juice getting to the anchor, I didn't get any pro for the last 10 ft, and the climbing wasn't easy. Jul 11, 2014
s.price
Pagosa Springs
  5.11+
s.price   Pagosa Springs
  5.11+
I felt the same way on this route during the FA which finished up onto the ledge at the top. This was pre-chains. Sure as hell felt 11+ that day. Dec 11, 2014