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Routes in Piedra River - Lower West

Become the Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Beauty S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Spell T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cattle Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deuce S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Different Strokes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Emotionally Involved S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
F***in' Greenies S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Body Brace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giggin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Seam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Graffiti Wall V5 6C
Hollow Excuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hopstacle Course S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huggy Bear V5+ 6C+
I & Eye S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jammers Kant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Crashes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Main Traverse V1+ 5
Main Traverse 2.0 V7 7A+
Mild Hops S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moman V4 6B
Nescafe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nick & Todd TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
November Reign S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice Wall S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raising Awareness S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rave Mode S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refuse To Suffer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ruled By Force S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smokin' Stems T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solo Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southern Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Taster's Choice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thunder Will S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trigger TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 2 T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Up Above It V4-5 6B+
Van Gogh's S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Hops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winning Streak S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Alex Scott & Travis Reid
Page Views: 1,021 total, 16/month
Shared By: Pullhard on Oct 24, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This trad climb has plenty of face holds and edges. The route also features good hand jams and some stemming.

A pocketed face gets you started in the crack, which takes gear well. Pull through the easily protected crux - a short, steep section. Cruise to the top using the crack and face. The crack widens toward the top; finish on the face to the right.

Belay the second up and remember to enjoy the views over at the edge of the prow.

Location

It is near the farthest visible prow on the lower west cliff band. Use the same approach as for the other lower west climbs, but take the right fork in the trail 20 yards before First Wall. It is a 10-15 minute hike from here, following the rim of the canyon.

Look for the chained anchor (N 37 24.891' W 107 12.048'). If the cliff below disappears, you have hiked past the climb. Rack up, rap from the chains, then climb it back out to the top. Or, hike down just past the prow to access the bottom. There is some scree and oak brush if you hike, but it can easily be done.

Note: there are two cracks in this area. The one easiest to see from the rim is dirty and full of choss; this is not the route. The one to climb is to the climber's left. It is difficult to see from the rim, but it is obvious at the base of the climb.

Protection

Cams: mostly hands and big hands. If you're comfortable at the grade, nothing bigger than BD #4. A small piece might help near the start.

Photos

Angela Lee
South Fork, CO
 
Angela Lee   South Fork, CO
 
This fun route could definitely use some more traffic and housekeeping - helmets highly recommended; got nailed a few times belaying, and even the climber got bonked in the head by loose rock.

Approximately ~20 minute approach to get to the right cliff band and chain anchors. Sep 11, 2017
TrevorRoulstin
Durango, Co
 
TrevorRoulstin   Durango, Co
 
I feel this climb has a lot to offer to those looking for fun. The extremely varied climbing is yummy with just the right hint of spice. Do your future self a kindness, climb this stone garden. May 14, 2016
s.price
PS,CO
 
s.price   PS,CO
 
This will be a great route once it cleans up. Jul 12, 2013