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Full Body Brace

5.8, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: Alex Scott & Travis Reid
Colorado > Pagosa Springs > Piedra River > Piedra River - Lower West

Description

This trad climb has plenty of face holds and edges. The route also features good hand jams and some stemming.

A pocketed face gets you started in the crack, which takes gear well. Pull through the easily protected crux - a short, steep section. Cruise to the top using the crack and face. The crack widens toward the top; finish on the face to the right.

Belay the second up and remember to enjoy the views over at the edge of the prow.

Location

It is near the farthest visible prow on the lower west cliff band. Use the same approach as for the other lower west climbs, but take the right fork in the trail 20 yards before First Wall. It is a 10-15 minute hike from here, following the rim of the canyon.

Look for the chained anchor (N 37 24.891' W 107 12.048'). If the cliff below disappears, you have hiked past the climb. Rack up, rap from the chains, then climb it back out to the top. Or, hike down just past the prow to access the bottom. There is some scree and oak brush if you hike, but it can easily be done.

Note: there are two cracks in this area. The one easiest to see from the rim is dirty and full of choss; this is not the route. The one to climb is to the climber's left. It is difficult to see from the rim, but it is obvious at the base of the climb.

Protection

Cams: mostly hands and big hands. If you're comfortable at the grade, nothing bigger than BD #4. A small piece might help near the start.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nice ledges for stemming.
[Hide Photo] Nice ledges for stemming.
Intimidating roof start initially looks harder than a 5.8 but is fairly manageable.
[Hide Photo] Intimidating roof start initially looks harder than a 5.8 but is fairly manageable.
Good pro on this route.
[Hide Photo] Good pro on this route.
View from east side.  Location of "Full Body Brace."  The crack is hidden, tucked in the corner.
[Hide Photo] View from east side. Location of "Full Body Brace." The crack is hidden, tucked in the corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

s.price
the deck of Rover or Pagosa…
 
[Hide Comment] This will be a great route once it cleans up. Jul 12, 2013
TrevorRoulstin
Durango, Co
 
[Hide Comment] I feel this climb has a lot to offer to those looking for fun. The extremely varied climbing is yummy with just the right hint of spice. Do your future self a kindness, climb this stone garden. May 14, 2016
Angela Lee
South Fork, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This fun route could definitely use some more traffic and housekeeping - helmets highly recommended; got nailed a few times belaying, and even the climber got bonked in the head by loose rock.

Approximately ~20 minute approach to get to the right cliff band and chain anchors. Sep 11, 2017