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Routes in Piedra River - Lower West

Become the Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Beauty S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Spell T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cattle Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deuce S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Different Strokes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Emotionally Involved S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
F***in' Greenies S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Body Brace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giggin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Seam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Graffiti Wall V5 6C
Hollow Excuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hopstacle Course S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huggy Bear V5+ 6C+
I & Eye S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jammers Kant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Crashes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Main Traverse V1+ 5
Main Traverse 2.0 V7 7A+
Mild Hops S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moman V4 6B
Nescafe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nick & Todd TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
November Reign S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice Wall S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raising Awareness S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rave Mode S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refuse To Suffer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ruled By Force S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smokin' Stems T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solo Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southern Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Taster's Choice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thunder Will S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trigger TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 2 T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Up Above It V4-5 6B+
Van Gogh's S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Hops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winning Streak S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: A. Scott with Dean Huwe, original vision: Steve Cundy
Page Views: 197 total, 2/month
Shared By: s.price on Dec 2, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is on the arete. From a handmatch in the eye feature, pull onto arete to find a mixed bag of crimps, pockets, and slopers. Finish up slab to shared anchor with Hollow Excuse. It is good, clean air if you blow the crux.

Location

I & Eye is the obvious arete left of Van Gogh's.

Protection

7 bolts to chains. The last bolt is shared with Hollow Excuse.

Photos

Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
 
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
 
The 4th clip is a little on the scary side, especially when onsighting this route. I could just be old, but if I was learning how to climb 5.11+, that would feel pretty heads up. If you're learning to climb this grade, I would of stick clipped the fourth bolt to learn the moves first. Some people really like watching people take unnecessary size whippers or prove how big their balls are. I don't feel that way at 33 and 13 years of climbing experience. A younger me might. The climbing on this route is worth the effort. It's a really good route. Aug 12, 2016
s.price
PS,CO
 
s.price   PS,CO
 
Having climbed this many times, the route IMO deserves more attention.
As Pullhard said, it is a great route. Jun 22, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c/d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11c/d
I'm always amazed at natural, cool, unique features on routes such as the "eye" hole on this route. Tricky, fun and sustained arĂȘte climbing make for a great line. Oct 2, 2011
Pullhard
  5.11+
Pullhard  
  5.11+
This is a superb route that gets little traffic. Keep climbing through the crux until you find the jug to clip from. I've taken the fall, the air doesn't hurt. Sep 20, 2011