Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Rich Strang & Alex Scott
Page Views: 249 total · 3/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Aug 8, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Good warm-up moves on positive holds off the ground lead to a VERY reachy dihedral section. Above this, save some gas for the powerful finish MOOOO-VES. - YEE-HAW!! -

This wall faces north, so it's usually shaded during the hot morning hours of summer. It is a pretty good warm-up route though it requires power if you're not tall.

Location

This is 20 feet left of Chocolate Corner.

Protection

5 bolts to lowering anchors.

Photos

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10+
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10+
It was quite a spectacle to see a herd of cattle being driven up the canyon trail right underneath us as Alex and I were doing this route....

This route could feel more like 5.11 if you aren't feeling strong and are under 5' 9". The dihedral move is reachy, and there aren't intermediate holds. If you're getting pumped at the finish, it's pretty tough looking for the "hidden" foot hold as you try to clip the chains. Not quite as good as some of the newer routes we've done recently but still 3 1/2 stars I'd say. Aug 8, 2011
Pullhard
  5.10d
Pullhard  
  5.10d
Good moves on steep rock with all-day shade make this a great route. Aug 9, 2011
Mort
  5.11a
Mort  
  5.11a
Cool route, definitely reachy. At 5'7", I thought it felt like 11a or so. Just one hard move, but turning the right hand to an undercling allowed me to make the reach with length to spare. My 5'1" partner thought it was 11+ using those non-existent intermediates Rich mentions. May 5, 2013
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
Rock quality down low is a little suspect. Movement in middle through top is great fun. Careful, the top of this climb seems to seep and hold moisture for a while. Wet holds above the last bolt make this very difficult...and probably irresponsible to climb on wet sandstone. Jun 29, 2015
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
Fun route with a reachy crux and very dirty top. It gets good early shade and is a worthy warm-up. Aug 5, 2018