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Routes in Piedra River - Lower West

Become the Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Beauty S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Spell T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cattle Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deuce S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Different Strokes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Emotionally Involved S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
F***in' Greenies S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Body Brace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giggin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Seam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Graffiti Wall V5 6C
Hollow Excuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hopstacle Course S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huggy Bear V5+ 6C+
I & Eye S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jammers Kant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Crashes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Main Traverse V1+ 5
Main Traverse 2.0 V7 7A+
Mild Hops S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moman V4 6B
Nescafe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nick & Todd TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
November Reign S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice Wall S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raising Awareness S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rave Mode S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refuse To Suffer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ruled By Force S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smokin' Stems T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solo Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southern Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Taster's Choice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thunder Will S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trigger TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 2 T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Up Above It V4-5 6B+
Van Gogh's S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Hops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winning Streak S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Rich Strang & Alex Scott
Page Views: 131 total, 2/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Aug 8, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Good warm-up moves on positive holds off the ground lead to a VERY reachy dihedral section. Above this, save some gas for the powerful finish MOOOO-VES. - YEE-HAW!! -

This wall faces north, so it's usually shaded during the hot morning hours of summer. It is a pretty good warm-up route though it requires power if you're not tall.

Location

This is 20 feet left of Chocolate Corner.

Protection

5 bolts to lowering anchors.

Photos

A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
Rock quality down low is a little suspect. Movement in middle through top is great fun. Careful, the top of this climb seems to seep and hold moisture for a while. Wet holds above the last bolt make this very difficult...and probably irresponsible to climb on wet sandstone. Jun 29, 2015
Mort
  5.11a
Mort  
  5.11a
Cool route, definitely reachy. At 5'7", I thought it felt like 11a or so. Just one hard move, but turning the right hand to an undercling allowed me to make the reach with length to spare. My 5'1" partner thought it was 11+ using those non-existent intermediates Rich mentions. May 5, 2013
Pullhard
  5.10d
Pullhard  
  5.10d
Good moves on steep rock with all-day shade make this a great route. Aug 9, 2011
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
It was quite a spectacle to see a herd of cattle being driven up the canyon trail right underneath us as Alex and I were doing this route....

This route could feel more like 5.11 if you aren't feeling strong and are under 5' 9". The dihedral move is reachy, and there aren't intermediate holds. If you're getting pumped at the finish, it's pretty tough looking for the "hidden" foot hold as you try to clip the chains. Not quite as good as some of the newer routes we've done recently but still 3 1/2 stars I'd say. Aug 8, 2011