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Routes in Piedra River - Lower West

Become the Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Beauty S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Spell T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cattle Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deuce S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Different Strokes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Emotionally Involved S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
F***in' Greenies S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Body Brace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giggin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Seam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Graffiti Wall V5 6C
Hollow Excuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hopstacle Course S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huggy Bear V5+ 6C+
I & Eye S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jammers Kant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Crashes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Main Traverse V1+ 5
Main Traverse 2.0 V7 7A+
Mild Hops S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moman V4 6B
Nescafe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nick & Todd TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
November Reign S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice Wall S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raising Awareness S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rave Mode S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refuse To Suffer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ruled By Force S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smokin' Stems T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solo Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southern Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Taster's Choice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thunder Will S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trigger TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 2 T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Up Above It V4-5 6B+
Van Gogh's S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Hops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winning Streak S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: no one remembers, original vision Jason & Wayne
Page Views: 2,262 total, 27/month
Shared By: s.price on Dec 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is 1/3 the way up in a shallow corner. This route was also 5.9 when the block across trail from route came out while being climbed. The crux is through the same section now climbing obviously better rock. A variety of holds and moves makes this the must do 5.9 in PR.

Location

Lightning Crashes is 25 feet left of Black.

Protection

7 glue-in bolts. Glue-in anchors on face and over the top as well. Use the ones over the top.

Photos

s.price
PS,CO
 
s.price   PS,CO
 
You're right. Somewhere on every Piedra route is a reachy section.
The anchor bolts on the face are to be removed this summer.
My wife is 5'2" and has different beta through the crux. I can't do it like she does. May 10, 2014
Kayla Allen
Colorado Springs
 
Kayla Allen   Colorado Springs
 
This was a great route, although it was a bit reach-y in places (especially if you're short; seems to be the trend in the area). There are anchor bolts on the face as well as top bolts - probably because the face bolts have cracks coming out of them which I would watch for and probably avoid using as a result. May 10, 2014