Type: Trad, TR, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches
FA: Unknown pm me info and i will add
Page Views: 1,297 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ti ck on May 17, 2019
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Shortoff Mountain South - Falcon Closure Lifted for 2021 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

I noticed that most moderate climbers at shortoff stay on only a couple routes, so here is another one to increase options.  It was put up probably some time in the 70s or 80s?  Maybe a Bob Gillespie route? and has probably only seen a couple ascents since. A great route if you are breaking into the 5.8 grade since it is one fairly short 5.8 crux and one 5.7.  Good practice placing gear as you cruise the top pitches.

The start of this climb is essentially just to the right of dopey duck in the corner, behind what i call the “dopey boulder”

P1 ascend the corner on relatively easy terrain to the white roof, the climbing steps up to 5.7 through the short roof traverse. You will come to a fairly distinct notch in the roof, its a bit akward and kicks way back but is 5.8 with some big holds and a good body jam can be found.  Do not continue traversing... it gets hard.This pitch is free of lichen by nature but has some somewhat chossy rock in some sections, Ive knocked anything loose off but things are still fragile.
Gear anchor

P2 continue straight up, the crux of this pitch is a slightly reachy move over a blank section 5.7. Super safe climbing with gear everywhere. Gear anchor where it seems best or combo with p3.

P3 continue on fantastic chicken head jugz and horizontal hand jamzies. 5.5 belay on two pines up top. Walk off up climbers left

Location Suggest change

Climbers right of dopey duck in the corner

Protection Suggest change

Standard nc rack