Avg: 2 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Unknown pm me info and i will add|
|Page Views:||906 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Ti ck on May 17, 2019|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
The start of this climb is essentially just to the right of dopey duck in the corner, behind what i call the “dopey boulder”
P1 ascend the corner on relatively easy terrain to the white roof, the climbing steps up to 5.7 through the short roof traverse. You will come to a fairly distinct notch in the roof, its a bit akward and kicks way back but is 5.8 with some big holds and a good body jam can be found. Do not continue traversing... it gets hard.This pitch is free of lichen by nature but has some somewhat chossy rock in some sections, Ive knocked anything loose off but things are still fragile.
P2 continue straight up, the crux of this pitch is a slightly reachy move over a blank section 5.7. Super safe climbing with gear everywhere. Gear anchor where it seems best or combo with p3.
P3 continue on fantastic chicken head jugz and horizontal hand jamzies. 5.5 belay on two pines up top. Walk off up climbers left