Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Joe Lackey, Ron Dawson, Zach Lesch-Huie|
|Page Views:||2,581 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Stayner on Oct 25, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
In addition - all 2020 raptor closures on the Nantahala Pisgah NF are LIFTED as of 6/29/2020
All routes are now open.
P1- Look for the tiny edges and crimp up the slabby face, passing a line of bolts (book says 5, I only remember 4). Take care between the first and second, as you will be in groundfall terrain for a minute from a ways up. Keep your eyes open at the third bolt and find a way to move up AND reach the next clip. After the bolts end, follow a short right-facing corner with marginal gear. Pull onto the face to the left and into a left-facing corner, eventually moving back right again onto the face. Locate a small stance with a horizontal that will eat .75-1" gear and belay. NOTE: In the opinion of me (and everyone else I know who's climbed the route), the crux is a scorchin' sandbag! More like 11a/b. Still intriguing though. 5.10c, 120'.
P2- Continue straight up the middle of the face in a finger crack/water groove. Locate a rusty piton about 10' beneath the large roof, clip it, and climb up. Pull the roof at the obvious horizontal. Great moves! Continue up easier terrain to a roomy belay ledge. 5.9+, 180'.
P3- Climb a short headwall right off the belay, and continue up easy terrain to the top of the cliff. 5.7, 100'.