Avg: 3.6 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Joe Lackey, Ron Dawson, Zach Lesch-Huie|
|Page Views:||2,890 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Stayner on Oct 25, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
P1- Look for the tiny edges and crimp up the slabby face, passing a line of bolts (book says 5, I only remember 4). Take care between the first and second, as you will be in groundfall terrain for a minute from a ways up. Keep your eyes open at the third bolt and find a way to move up AND reach the next clip. After the bolts end, follow a short right-facing corner with marginal gear. Pull onto the face to the left and into a left-facing corner, eventually moving back right again onto the face. Locate a small stance with a horizontal that will eat .75-1" gear and belay. NOTE: In the opinion of me (and everyone else I know who's climbed the route), the crux is a scorchin' sandbag! More like 11a/b. Still intriguing though. 5.10c, 120'.
P2- Continue straight up the middle of the face in a finger crack/water groove. Locate a rusty piton about 10' beneath the large roof, clip it, and climb up. Pull the roof at the obvious horizontal. Great moves! Continue up easier terrain to a roomy belay ledge. 5.9+, 180'.
P3- Climb a short headwall right off the belay, and continue up easy terrain to the top of the cliff. 5.7, 100'.