Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Bill Newman (1979)
Page Views: 4,139 total · 41/month
Shared By: John Saunders on Nov 21, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Follow the arching corner until it ends. The cross some heavily featured face to the belay at the top of pitch 1 of Paradise Alley. (5.7; 120 feet).
Pitches 2 - 4: Finish on Paradise Alley.

Location

Start at the corner 40 feet left of Paradise Alley

Protection

-

Photos

Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
 
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
 
5.7 rating is a little deceptive. To top out this route you must climb the 5.8+ upper pitches of Paradise Alley. The first pitch is better than anything on Maginot Line. Dec 15, 2011
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
But isn't P2 - P4 of Paradise Alley 5.7 anyway? Oct 6, 2016
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I finally climbed this route. It's not really 5.8. One could reasonably call it 5.7 It's a good route with great protection and fun moves.

The first pitch is money. Tremendous 5.7 corner. You don't end up at with the P1 belay of Paradise Alley. You can see it... but it would be a horrible traverse. Build a gear belay and keep going up the corner system. Eventually you will pull up onto the giant mossy ledge which is the top of P2 of Paradise Alley. Now you are on the same climb. The final two "pitches" are short, steep jug-fests which are arguably 5.8- at most, but could easily be called 5.7. Protection is abundant, and the sequences are short because the walls are 40 ft. and 25 ft. respectively. Then it's over.

This climb is a good addition to the 5.7 offerings at Shortoff. P1 is classic. Apr 17, 2017
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The souf east
  5.7+
.   The souf east
  5.7+
I agree with what Russ said, spot on
It is quite pumpy up top, plug and chug mode Oct 22, 2017
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
  5.8+ PG13
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
  5.8+ PG13
First pitch has a slightly heady 15 ish foot runout on the slabby dihedral - but you have good holds the whole way. Don't try crawling up the squeeze chimney to the left. Amazing route overall, and much MUCH better than Maginot line. Agree with Ross - don't trend right for the p2 belay, that would be sketchy as hell.

Here's my rating for the pitches:

P1: 5.7 PG13
P2: 5.6
P3: 5.7
P4: 5.8+ ish Dec 7, 2017
Lewis L
Asheville, NC
  5.7 PG13
Lewis L   Asheville, NC
  5.7 PG13
This is a really great route, but IMO Maginot is better 5.7 to start out your Shortoff experience. I would estimate the runout to the first good gear to be more like 25 feet. The holds are all there, but the consequences are too. Pitch for pitch, though, it's every bit as good as the 'classic' on the south end. Nov 19, 2018