Type: Trad, Sport, 290 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ken Pitts, Karl Lail 1994
Page Views: 2,346 total · 17/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 19, 2007 with updates from Brian Abram
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details

Description

Interesting route with an adventurous feel. The first pitch is something of a change from the typical Shortoff "steep pulls".
p1: Climb a waterstreak with three bolts and some gear to a stance near or in the large chimney to your left. 5.9, 100'
p2: Shull and Lambert's book says to "move right" to a "steep, bucket-infested wall". We did this, but maybe we didn't move far enough right. And while the wall was certainly bucket-infested, it was also lichen-infested. Good gear and climbing nonetheless. Belay when the terrain becomes ledgy enough to provide a comfortable stance. 5.9, 140'
p3: Continue up to the top over easy terrain. 5.6, 50'

Location

Continue walking left past White Russians. You will pass a steep, intimidating wall with some interesting aid lines/hard free routes. Lost and Found is just around the corner from these, located just right of a large chimney/corner.

Protection

Standard Shortoff rack with emphasis on small-medium cams.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
Pitch two is an exercise in climbing lichen-encrusted jugs. Still fun, though. Apr 28, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Felt like both pitches were softer than the 5.9 rating. P2 was very easy slab with buckets. I was hoping it would be steeper. P2 I didn't find as much lichen as others, but I stayed slightly right on the part of the face that looked the cleanest. Maybe this made P2 easier, but there was a few very easy roof pulls. Oct 10, 2011
Austin Howell
Atlanta, Georgia
Austin Howell   Atlanta, Georgia
I realize this is North Carolina, but this is hardly a "sport" route. It has three bolts. I just encountered climbers from Florida who intended to drive up and hop on this thing because they thought they had finally found some sport multipitch. Might want to change the description lest we lead someone into a bad time Apr 8, 2017