Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Lyle Dean, Kitty Calhoun FFA Jim Okel, Tom Howard, Thomas Kelly
Page Views: 1,754 total · 18/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Mar 14, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details

Description

I almost had to ask Mr. Wizard for help......almost.

Another great Shortoff classic! Climb the juggy face up to the crack. Clip an old pin and crank the burly/bouldery moves to a great stance and better gear. Finish up a wonderfully sustained and steep 5.8+ crack to a comfy belay ledge. Belay on natural gear.

To get off, you can finish on Maginot Line or Big Arete.

Location

Starts right of Maginot Line about 30 ft, beneath a steep face with a crack.

Protection

small to medium hybid cams, small to medium nuts, camalots .4 to 3(double .5 to 1 helpful but not neccessary), black tricam for the starting move to the jug, belay takes small to medium tcus

Photos

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sanz
Raleigh, NC
sanz   Raleigh, NC
We attempted the start this weekend and couldn't find any gear to protect the crux moves to gain the crack. There was no fixed pin in sight. Any gear beta? Nov 5, 2012
Robert Hutchins
  5.10d PG13
Robert Hutchins  
  5.10d PG13
It's been several years since I've done this (>decade?), but my recollection is that you can't get any good gear that keeps you from taking a nasty fall at the start. I think you can get some head gear with steel nut or ball-nut, but you are basically bouldering up to get the gear over bulge. Kind of a 9+/10a placement, if I remember. The gear you get over the bulge for the crux is great though. Jan 3, 2013
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11- PG13
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11- PG13
A really pretty line, but it's a fairly serious lead. Get pro where you can going to the pin. A yellow master cam / alien is useful. Apr 22, 2013
brian k sohn
knoxville, tn
  5.11b
brian k sohn   knoxville, tn
  5.11b
We got a black tri-cam stuck yesterday off the ledge below the pin. I felt pretty good about the gear, I got a couple more good-enough pieces before clipping the pin. Jun 9, 2016