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Routes in Shortoff Mountain

Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Paradise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Footloose T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Golden Rule T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Julia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
N.B.A. (Nothing But Air) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paradise Lost T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reacharound T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Serentripitous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
White Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 340 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Bruce Meneghin 1977
Page Views: 8,074 total, 65/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

One of the more aesthetic lines at Shortoff. Fun, continuous and varied climbing on good horizontals, with a few good locks for good measure. Great gear. Some pitches can be linked.

p1- Wide crack/chimney sorta thing with a dead tree a short ways up. The guidebook says to stop at this small tree and belay, but I've always continued all the way to a stance where the climbing obviously becomes harder. Also, not that it matters, but this pitch has seemed a lot harder than 5.5! More like 5.7, I think. "5.5", 140'
p2- Climb a left facing corner and eventually pull out onto the face to the right, at a point when you're underneath a roof. Continue up to a stance with a nice crack shooting off above and through a roof. Belay at this stance. 5.10a, 60 or 70'.
p3- Climb up the crack and through the roof on hero jugs! Continue running for the top through ever-easier terrain. Shull says this pitch is 140', but it's always seemed like a full 60 m. ropelength to get to the top of the cliff. 5.10a, 200'.

Location

An obvious "splitter" (such a thing can't really exist in the sea of horizontals that is the Linville Gorge) route a short ways left of Construction Job.

Protection

A standard rack to 3" with an emphasis on smaller stuff. Route has great stopper placements.
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.10a
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.10a
I've got to agree with what Mike said; an absolute classic with amazing movement and exposure. Bring plenty of slings to climb route in two pitches. Linking the two 5.10 pitches is some of the best climbing I've ever done in NC. Strait up Classic! Mar 7, 2016
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
A Linville Puritan right and proper!! Off the deck, one unwavering feature straight (and narrow) to the top. This route starts of easy breezy and gradually escalates in difficulty and steepness the higher you ascend. Delicate footwork and splitter exposure all combined with plenty of gear options make this route all the more a fantastic overall climb and an excellent introduction to the grade in the area.

Straight up—Get on it!! Dec 18, 2015
b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
 
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
 
Nearly a plumb line and such a beautiful climb. Interestingly this part of the gorge faces more southwest than, say, routes like Maginot or Dopey, and therefore receives great sun on clear, cold days.

If you're like us and trying to break into 10's on gear, this is a great climb to send as it has superb gear. From below, the line appears intimidatingly steep but with some patient footwork there are great hands-free rest stances where you need them.

Gear Beta: standard Linville rack (nuts, tricams, and cams up to #3 BD). Emphasis on nuts for P2 and P3. Nov 15, 2015
Drew Hayes
Charlotte, NC
 
Drew Hayes   Charlotte, NC
 
The first time I went out to climb at Shortoff, I saw this line and thought "man I need to climb that". We did the climb in two mega-pitches, but the drag is a son of a bitch once you pull around the final bulge. I brought doubles of the small stuff but aside from one small nut, everything I placed was .5 and up. Dec 15, 2014
Monkey-sa  
 
Fun, Fun, Fun!!! Very aesthetic, just called to me as I turned the corner to gaze up at the wall. A must climb. The second pitch is sustained, tricky and amazing. As mentioned before, bring your small stuff. This is a must climb for those who like to climb aesthetic routes. Apr 2, 2013
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
We did it in three pitches. The second belay stance is not the most comfortable and it makes the second pitch quite short, but the position on the wall is super cool. Kinda has a big-wall feel. If you're in no rush and the weather is nice, it's a pretty cool place to hang out. Nov 5, 2012
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.10-
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.10-
One of the best routes that I have done at this grade. We climbed it like Jeff, in two pitches. The easy climbing in the beginning is as fun as 5.5 can be for someone who is about to do a 5.10 pitch. Belay below the first roof, about 150 feet up. The second pitch is sustained and excellent... really great movement with good gear and a few short bits of true crack climbing! Oct 21, 2011
Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
 
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
 
One of my favorite routes anywhere! I usually do it in two pitches to the top: One long one to a ledge just below the start of the harder climbing (just below the 5.9+ corner). Then it's about 60 m to a tree over the lip. Done this way, that second pitch is just amazing! Watch for drag, and have a blast. Oct 11, 2007
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
As mentioned, a great way to climb this route is in two pitches: p1 climb/stem the shallow chimney system to just below a roof, 150ish feet, 5.5. p2 climb the above mentioned business - corner, pull roof out onto a crimpy face, to the top of a block/pillar, keep going up the crack system, pull the second roof and belay somewhere on less vertical terrain, 130ish feet, 5.10a. Oct 8, 2007