Type: Trad, 340 ft (103 m), 3 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Bruce Meneghin 1977
Page Views: 11,691 total · 69/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


108 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2021 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details
Access Issue: Shortoff Mountain South - Falcon Closure Lifted for 2021 Details

Description

One of the more aesthetic lines at Shortoff. Fun, continuous and varied climbing on good horizontals, with a few good locks for good measure. Great gear. Some pitches can be linked.

p1- Wide crack/chimney sorta thing with a dead tree a short ways up. The guidebook says to stop at this small tree and belay, but I've always continued all the way to a stance where the climbing obviously becomes harder. Also, not that it matters, but this pitch has seemed a lot harder than 5.5! More like 5.7, I think. "5.5", 140'
p2- Climb a left facing corner and eventually pull out onto the face to the right, at a point when you're underneath a roof. Continue up to a stance with a nice crack shooting off above and through a roof. Belay at this stance. 5.10a, 60 or 70'.
p3- Climb up the crack and through the roof on hero jugs! Continue running for the top through ever-easier terrain. Shull says this pitch is 140', but it's always seemed like a full 60 m. ropelength to get to the top of the cliff. 5.10a, 200'.

Location

An obvious "splitter" (such a thing can't really exist in the sea of horizontals that is the Linville Gorge) route a short ways left of Construction Job.

Protection

A standard rack to 3" with an emphasis on smaller stuff. Route has great stopper placements.

Photos