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Routes in Shortoff Mountain
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Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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C. O. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dizzy Gillespie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Early Times T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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False Paradise T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Golden Rule T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Julia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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King of Tulips, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Paradigm Shift T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Paradise Lost T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ralph’s Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Serentripitous T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Short Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Straight Gas Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sword of the Lord T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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White Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Unkown |
| Page Views: | 2,590 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Shadrock on Jan 4, 2015 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
The first pitch of this route is a great 5.9 that is often cited as a good alternative start to Dopey Duck. It's located immediately to the left of the block upon which Dopey starts; then joins Dopey for a short section before the belay that both routes share at the top of P1; then continues to the right of it. So it's a nice way to scope Dopey, which should be on your list if it isn't. Although often described as a "finger crack" I found the crux to be more a series of a large holds along a typical variegated Shorftoff seam that contained some finger locks and liebacks here and there before easing off to a larger crack.
P1 (~120) 5.9: Start up (what looks like) a diagonal finger crack leaning to the right and immediately to the left of the block on which Dopey Duck starts. Although not as steep as Dopey, this is consistent climbing for about 100 feet with a deceptively steep crux section. Guides often say to belay at the dead tree stump, but there's an additional stance a bit further on.
P2 (~150) 5.6: Continue up a the large blocky dihedral/crack feature directly above. Look for the path of least lichen. I noticed that it stayed in the crack for a while then veered out onto the face. Ideal belay is the same large rock and moss ledge at the top of Dopey's P2, but there are some other options.
P3 (~90) 5.easy: Finish the very short wall immediately off the ledge and scramble or scramble up the lichen-covered dihedral/crack that continues up the natural line.
P1 (~120) 5.9: Start up (what looks like) a diagonal finger crack leaning to the right and immediately to the left of the block on which Dopey Duck starts. Although not as steep as Dopey, this is consistent climbing for about 100 feet with a deceptively steep crux section. Guides often say to belay at the dead tree stump, but there's an additional stance a bit further on.
P2 (~150) 5.6: Continue up a the large blocky dihedral/crack feature directly above. Look for the path of least lichen. I noticed that it stayed in the crack for a while then veered out onto the face. Ideal belay is the same large rock and moss ledge at the top of Dopey's P2, but there are some other options.
P3 (~90) 5.easy: Finish the very short wall immediately off the ledge and scramble or scramble up the lichen-covered dihedral/crack that continues up the natural line.
Location
Turn skier's right (north) at the bottom of the descent gully and follow the faint trail to the base of the cliff at the first opportunity. If you go more than a hundred yards you've gone too far. The start of the route is in a plumb line directly underneath P2 of Dopey, which you can see above the foliage.
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