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Routes in Shortoff Mountain

Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Paradise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Footloose T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Golden Rule T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Julia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
N.B.A. (Nothing But Air) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paradise Lost T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reacharound T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Serentripitous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
White Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Unkown
Page Views: 802 total · 22/month
Shared By: Shadrock on Jan 4, 2015
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The first pitch of this route is a great 5.9 that is often cited as a good alternative start to Dopey Duck. It's located immediately to the left of the block upon which Dopey starts; then joins Dopey for a short section before the belay that both routes share at the top of P1; then continues to the right of it. So it's a nice way to scope Dopey, which should be on your list if it isn't. Although often described as a "finger crack" I found the crux to be more a series of a large holds along a typical variegated Shorftoff seam that contained some finger locks and liebacks here and there before easing off to a larger crack.

P1 (~120) 5.9: Start up (what looks like) a diagonal finger crack leaning to the right and immediately to the left of the block on which Dopey Duck starts. Although not as steep as Dopey, this is consistent climbing for about 100 feet with a deceptively steep crux section. Guides often say to belay at the dead tree stump, but there's an additional stance a bit further on.

P2 (~150) 5.6: Continue up a the large blocky dihedral/crack feature directly above. Look for the path of least lichen. I noticed that it stayed in the crack for a while then veered out onto the face. Ideal belay is the same large rock and moss ledge at the top of Dopey's P2, but there are some other options.

P3 (~90) 5.easy: Finish the very short wall immediately off the ledge and scramble or scramble up the lichen-covered dihedral/crack that continues up the natural line.

Location

Turn skier's right (north) at the bottom of the descent gully and follow the faint trail to the base of the cliff at the first opportunity. If you go more than a hundred yards you've gone too far. The start of the route is in a plumb line directly underneath P2 of Dopey, which you can see above the foliage.

Protection

Standard Shortoff rack. Emphasis on small stoppers and TCU's at the beginning of P1, where pro may seem sparse. I find offset brassies and tricams helpful, but that's just me. Lots of good passive if you look for it. You can find big gear (e.g. BD #4) on P2 but it's not necessary.

Photos

b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
  5.8+
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
  5.8+
This is a great 1st pitch to link with P2 of Dopey Duck. As the description states, small nuts are important for P1. The rock quality is a little tenuous on this pitch so lead smart. Mar 16, 2015