Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shortoff Mountain

Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Paradise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Footloose T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Golden Rule T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Julia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
N.B.A. (Nothing But Air) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paradise Lost T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reacharound T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Serentripitous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
White Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Big Arete~ Nathan Brown 2009 (rope solo) Original Tall Order (last pitch) ~ Doug Sword, Nathan Brown spring 2005
Page Views: 2,965 total, 29/month
Shared By: nbrown on Jun 11, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a direct route up the arete feature from the ground to the top. The exposed last pitch follows part of the older route "Tall Order", and is one of my personal all time favorites. An alternate pitch one is to climb "Help Mr Wizard" to the large ledge about 190' up.

P-1 5.11 Start underneath the arete of The "Big Corner", and below the left end of the block/ledge feature where "Armed Robbery" starts. Climb easy terrain to a short grungy chimney (extreme left side of "block") which leads to a 3 bolt line. Crank through this wild crux to better holds that eventually lead onto a pumpy 5.9ish face/arete. Continue up this to the large ledge about 170' up. Pro: #1 camelot down to #00 TCU's. Extra green & yellow alien sized pieces useful.

P-2 5.8 Move out right and pull an overlap to the vertical wall with a seam. Wander up and out onto the arete before moving back left to gain a nice ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. It is 190' down from here, not that you'd actually wanna go down...

P-3 5.10+? Move back over to the arete to gain a sloping ledge and a large block feature. Climb the left side of this feature to the short section of rotten rock that gains a small ledge atop the block. (Note: The original route comes in from the right and climbs the right side of this block). Clip bolt (pay attention to potential rope drag here) and start up into some of the best and most exposed climbing around. Keep your eyes peeled for a tricky shallow horizontal nut placement just above the last cruxy roof feature. This helps take the sting out of the funky mantel move, but is not neccessary and was not found originally during the FA. Continue up steep but more moderate climbing to the top.

Location

Starts just around the corner from "Help Mr Wizard" and climbs the large arete left of the "Big Corner".

Protection

Standard shortoff rack. Extra slings usefull on last pitch. Maybe an extra 2 inch piece as well.
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
  5.11- PG13
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
  5.11- PG13
I thought the first pitch was probably closer to 10+, while the last pitch might warrant an 11- rating. This route boasts incredible positioning, dynamic movements, and thought provoking and sustained climbing. I never did find that small stopper placement though... Dec 22, 2015
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Glad you liked it Sean. Nov 18, 2011
sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
 
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
 
funky mantle move is right! Aug 15, 2011
This looks rad, thanks for posting. Jun 12, 2009