Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jose Pereya, Scott Lazar (1997)
Page Views: 225 total · 15/month
Shared By: Lewis L on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details

Description

Climbs up the left side of the intimidating orange headwall right in the middle of the northern section of cliff.

P1: Start on Born to Be Free, then traverse over easy (5.8) ground about 35 feet to set up a hanging belay under the roof. 5.10+ 100'

P2: Power out the roof at the small left-facing corner, then hunt out the jugs through the discontinuous features. Protection is strenuous to place, but there. After a series of overlaps, establish a belay at a good horizontal on the far left side of the large roof. 5.11+ 80'

P3: A typical Shortoff jug haul through the double roof. This is a very short "pitch" that could, theoretically, be linked with the previous one. You would just need guns of steel and long slings. Belay in the lichens at a good stance about 15' above the last roof. 5.10+ 50'

P4: A long, wandering jaunt through the fields of lichen to a final steep-ish wall with an obvious weakness. 5.8 190'

Location

Head skier's right from the descent gully for five minutes or so. Before the Paradise Buttress, look up to find the large expanse of orange rock. Go around the corner to find the start from an obvious ledge below cracks.

Protection

Standard NC rack + small brass for the first pitch. A #3 and #4 are necessary for the first belay. Extra TCU/Mastercam/Aliens are always helpful.

Photos

nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
Rad route that deserves some traffic! The roof(s) pitch used to have some serious lichen on it - I doubt much has changed. Climb espresso grinder to this thing and that'd be one heck of a climb. Nov 5, 2017