Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Jose Pereya, Scott Lazar (1997)
Page Views: 1,309 total · 15/month
Shared By: Lewis L on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Shortoff Mountain South - Falcon Closure Lifted for 2021 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climbs up the left side of the intimidating orange headwall right in the middle of the northern section of cliff.

P1: Start on Born to Be Free, then traverse over easy (5.8) ground about 35 feet to set up a hanging belay under the roof. 5.10+ 100'

P2: Power out the roof at the small left-facing corner, then hunt out the jugs through the discontinuous features. Protection is strenuous to place, but there. After a series of overlaps, establish a belay at a good horizontal on the far left side of the large roof. 5.11+ 80'

P3: A typical Shortoff jug haul through the double roof. This is a very short "pitch" that could, theoretically, be linked with the previous one. You would just need guns of steel and long slings. Belay in the lichens at a good stance about 15' above the last roof. 5.10+ 50'

P4: A long, wandering jaunt through the fields of lichen to a final steep-ish wall with an obvious weakness. 5.8 190'

Location Suggest change

Head skier's right from the descent gully for five minutes or so. Before the Paradise Buttress, look up to find the large expanse of orange rock. Go around the corner to find the start from an obvious ledge below cracks.

Protection Suggest change

Standard NC rack + small brass for the first pitch. A #3 and #4 are necessary for the first belay. Extra TCU/Mastercam/Aliens are always helpful.

Photos

loading