Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Jose Pereya, Scott Lazar (1997) |
Page Views: | 1,309 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Lewis L on Nov 7, 2017 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
Climbs up the left side of the intimidating orange headwall right in the middle of the northern section of cliff.
P1: Start on Born to Be Free, then traverse over easy (5.8) ground about 35 feet to set up a hanging belay under the roof. 5.10+ 100'
P2: Power out the roof at the small left-facing corner, then hunt out the jugs through the discontinuous features. Protection is strenuous to place, but there. After a series of overlaps, establish a belay at a good horizontal on the far left side of the large roof. 5.11+ 80'
P3: A typical Shortoff jug haul through the double roof. This is a very short "pitch" that could, theoretically, be linked with the previous one. You would just need guns of steel and long slings. Belay in the lichens at a good stance about 15' above the last roof. 5.10+ 50'
P4: A long, wandering jaunt through the fields of lichen to a final steep-ish wall with an obvious weakness. 5.8 190'
P1: Start on Born to Be Free, then traverse over easy (5.8) ground about 35 feet to set up a hanging belay under the roof. 5.10+ 100'
P2: Power out the roof at the small left-facing corner, then hunt out the jugs through the discontinuous features. Protection is strenuous to place, but there. After a series of overlaps, establish a belay at a good horizontal on the far left side of the large roof. 5.11+ 80'
P3: A typical Shortoff jug haul through the double roof. This is a very short "pitch" that could, theoretically, be linked with the previous one. You would just need guns of steel and long slings. Belay in the lichens at a good stance about 15' above the last roof. 5.10+ 50'
P4: A long, wandering jaunt through the fields of lichen to a final steep-ish wall with an obvious weakness. 5.8 190'
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