Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,622 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on Apr 4, 2016
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

2 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Me and my partner hiked out with plans for a few specific high quality routes but after getting blown around by the wind while topping out our first objective decided it'd be smart to wrap things up. It was less windy at the base so we did a quick lead up the rappel line which put us on top of the first buttress (per the Select Guide). The wind picked up even more but rather than completely bag it and just hike up and out the gully we opted to check out the licheny easy 5th class face to the right of Dopey Duck and Dizzy Gillespie.

This path followed an arete on the rightmost side of the big wall starting with a fun easy overhang (5.4?) to get underway and follows a up through a series of juggy but dubious strength plates and assorted choss (be wary). Topped out a first pitch by belaying at a tree on the left side of this feature, about 100' up not long after it slabs off. From here our second pitch continued up easy terrain until we could surmount another imposing but easy juggy choss roof (with terrific wind).

This route is described as "easy 5th class" in the old Kelly guide, but I don't know if it has another name. Feel free to update/edit.

It certainly isn't something I recommend but it was a fun lichenous adventure and better than nothing with the wind howling around us. Seriously though, watch out for LOTS of loose blocks and friable rock. Just about any path up will do.

Location Suggest change

Belay/begin where comfortable somewhere just before the last boulder scramble to reach the rappel tree and make sure the belayer isn't somewhere they might get creamed if a rock comes flying down.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, lots of runners for deep horizontals galore - just beware that many of them are stacked thin with space above and below.