Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,992 total · 86/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Sep 26, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


87 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details

Description

This is about as much fun as you can have at 5.6! Good protection, exposure and sustained climbing.

Done in 3-4 pitches. No fixed hardware at belays which is typical for Shortoff.

Location

Turn left at the base of the descent gully and look for the first monster corner. This is "Little" Corner

Protection

One of everything to #3 camalot
Climbed 7/3/2009. Great climb. Really sustained for the grade. I could argue the case that Little Corner is as good as Maginot line.

I was very glad to get cell phone reception while I was climbing there in case something went wrong. It is extremely remote for NC. Did not see another climber all day, the day before the 4th of July (which was a Friday/Holiday). Jul 5, 2009
I think it works well as three pitches Nov 29, 2009
jacklewis21  
 
I was wondering if anyone has solo self belayed this route? If so, do you have any tips? Dec 29, 2011
Scott O
Anchorage
Scott O   Anchorage
Fun route. We climbed it in three pitches, which worked well. The first two were ~190 feet with good belays. Feb 4, 2012
ed hall
melbourne fl
ed hall   melbourne fl
I have soloed this.... its straightforward. Don't link any pitches is the only advice I can think off. Sustained ? - Don't think so. Fun - yes. My partner lead p3 in a downpour - that was interesting. Aug 8, 2012
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.6
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
  5.6
P1 crack is 4 stars awesome fun climbing for the grade, great gear and fun jams. In my opinion, the other pitches above don't hold a candle to the quality of P1. Sep 22, 2013
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
Recommend experienced parties can do in 2 pitches with a 70m. P1 - to the large bush-ledge. Then a 60-65 meter run to the top to belay off the pines. Apr 10, 2017
Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
Tried it yesterday in 2 pitches with a 60m rope, and it works fine as long as you keep the rope running straight. Linking p1&2 to the "alcove" belay is probably 170-180 feet. From there you can just make it to the tree at the top in one pitch. Belay from the diving board ledge and enjoy the view! May 1, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
A really good climb. A lot of varied climbing with multiple 5.6 sections. As usual for Shortoff, a single 70M kicks ass. 2 pitches Nov 25, 2017
Trad Dad Atlas
charlotte, nc
 
Trad Dad Atlas   charlotte, nc
 
Like ben posted above, we linked this in 2 pitches with a 70m and had an absolutely blast. We built our first belay in a little alcove which had some good cracks for small gear. There is also a great horizontal about 5-10 feet below the alcove which takes .5-1 pro in case you decide to build it there. Be aware that the alcove has a lot of small little rocks in it which a leader can easy accidently send hurtling towards their belayer. We did our best to move these to the back of the alcove which may above an injury in the future. Also be aware that about 15-20 feet above the alcove there are some large blocks which my partner pulled on (this one being microwave size) and it moved slightly. Belayed off a tree at the top. Fantastic route and a good solid 5.6 lead. P1 crack is amazing. Dec 30, 2018