Type: Trad, 300 ft
FA: Nathan Brown, rope solo
Page Views: 2,274 total · 17/month
Shared By: nbrown on Dec 14, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details

Description

This route is one of my personal favorites in the gorge. It's not quite as hard as it looks. Start as for "Paradise City". Clip first bolt from the ledge and climb straight up the main wall past 2 bolts to the overlap/roof. Pull the overlap on an incredible rail and clip the last bolt. Crank up into the seam and hang on just a little longer to the easier face above. Move up and traverse right to the same belay as for "Paradise City". P-2 Continue up "Paradise City", or climb the easier large dihedral out right.

Location

Climbs the steep and excellent wall just to the right of "Paradise Alley".

Protection

standard rack

Photos

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Phil York
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11+
Phil York   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11+
One of my all-time favorites in the gorge. Take a few long runners for the end of the route traversing to the belay. Jun 6, 2009
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.11b/c
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.11b/c
Finally got around to adding a bolt in the runout mid section today. The pro is now plenty adequate. Feb 27, 2018
Phil York
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11+
Phil York   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11+
Nathan, I personally never thought it was runout. I thought you did a fine job on pro originally. Where exactly did you add another bolt? Feb 27, 2018
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.11b/c
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.11b/c
Thanks Phil! it's in the section above bolt 2. Doug and I talked about it some in the past, and I've thought about it a lot over the years. When I originally did the route I traversed into the upper section from the corner, placing the upper 2 bolts. I later added the direct start (now std route). But I always felt the pro in the middle didn't flow as well as I would've liked. This just mitigates a potential ledge fall from the easier climbing.

Hope all is well! Feb 28, 2018
Phil York
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11+
Phil York   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11+
Right on, been awhile since I've been on the route, but I am envisioning that section above bolt 2 and before getting up under the bulge. I will have to check it out the next time I am down there. Ive always thought about taking a bastard file down there and filing down that sharp edge over the last hard move. I core shot a rope many moons ago, I think it was with you maybe, right there below the 4th bolt. Things are well, maybe we can get out some day soon! Thank you for all of your hard work and maintenance! Feb 28, 2018