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Stopperhead Arete
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 8
votes
Routes in Shortoff Mountain
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Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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C. O. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dizzy Gillespie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Early Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Face n Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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False Paradise T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Golden Rule T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Julia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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King of Tulips, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Paradise Lost T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ralph’s Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Serentripitous T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Short Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Straight Gas Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sword of the Lord T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Understated Tailoring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Warp Factor T T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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White Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Nathan Brown, Doug Swords, Zachary Lesch-Huie |
| Page Views: | 3,361 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Apr 25, 2011 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This is an excellent line up the arete to the right of Supercrack. The first 2 pitches are the best, with the last bit being the typical easier Shortoff style topout. This route was originally done with a "stopperhead" for "pro", and linked into the end of P-1 of Supercrack via a traverse. It was recently taken to the top, resulting in yet another excellent full length Shortoff route.
P-1 Boulder up past some hidden cams (from below) to the bolt. One can get a good rest here if they are flexible enough... Continue up the arete and face past lots of good horizontals to a 2 bolt anchor at about 90'. Note: The original route followed a left diagonaling seam up to the Supercrack anchors. This pitch packs a pump!
P-2 It is easy enough to belay from the big chockstone ledge to the right for slightly more comfort. Anyway, climb the crack feature in the wall above (inside gully) to a short hanging corner. Pull around that and move up and left to the arete and climb to the big ledge for a gear belay.
P-3 Climb any number of variations to the top, either as one pitch or 2 broken up.
P-1 Boulder up past some hidden cams (from below) to the bolt. One can get a good rest here if they are flexible enough... Continue up the arete and face past lots of good horizontals to a 2 bolt anchor at about 90'. Note: The original route followed a left diagonaling seam up to the Supercrack anchors. This pitch packs a pump!
P-2 It is easy enough to belay from the big chockstone ledge to the right for slightly more comfort. Anyway, climb the crack feature in the wall above (inside gully) to a short hanging corner. Pull around that and move up and left to the arete and climb to the big ledge for a gear belay.
P-3 Climb any number of variations to the top, either as one pitch or 2 broken up.
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