Stopperhead Arete
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Nathan Brown, Doug Swords, Zachary Lesch-Huie |
Page Views: | 3,361 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | nbrown on Apr 25, 2011 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This is an excellent line up the arete to the right of Supercrack. The first 2 pitches are the best, with the last bit being the typical easier Shortoff style topout. This route was originally done with a "stopperhead" for "pro", and linked into the end of P-1 of Supercrack via a traverse. It was recently taken to the top, resulting in yet another excellent full length Shortoff route.
P-1 Boulder up past some hidden cams (from below) to the bolt. One can get a good rest here if they are flexible enough... Continue up the arete and face past lots of good horizontals to a 2 bolt anchor at about 90'. Note: The original route followed a left diagonaling seam up to the Supercrack anchors. This pitch packs a pump!
P-2 It is easy enough to belay from the big chockstone ledge to the right for slightly more comfort. Anyway, climb the crack feature in the wall above (inside gully) to a short hanging corner. Pull around that and move up and left to the arete and climb to the big ledge for a gear belay.
P-3 Climb any number of variations to the top, either as one pitch or 2 broken up.
P-1 Boulder up past some hidden cams (from below) to the bolt. One can get a good rest here if they are flexible enough... Continue up the arete and face past lots of good horizontals to a 2 bolt anchor at about 90'. Note: The original route followed a left diagonaling seam up to the Supercrack anchors. This pitch packs a pump!
P-2 It is easy enough to belay from the big chockstone ledge to the right for slightly more comfort. Anyway, climb the crack feature in the wall above (inside gully) to a short hanging corner. Pull around that and move up and left to the arete and climb to the big ledge for a gear belay.
P-3 Climb any number of variations to the top, either as one pitch or 2 broken up.
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