Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shortoff Mountain

Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Paradise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Footloose T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Golden Rule T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Julia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
N.B.A. (Nothing But Air) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paradise Lost T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reacharound T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Serentripitous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
White Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Jim Okel - 1981
Page Views: 8,918 total, 77/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on May 31, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


48 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

An incredible line with the 3rd pitch being one of the proudest pitches of 5.10a trad anywhere.

P1 (5.7) Climb right arching feature to hanging island of trees and shrubbery. Belay then move belay up and climbers right to spot below diehedral way up above you.

P2 (5.8). Climb to base of diehedral. I remember long slings being nice.

P3 (crux). This is why you climb this route! Climb diehedral to its top (5.9) which is actually the top of a pillar under a large horizontal roof. Keyhole a nut in the crack (yep, you heard right!) and commit to the roof. You would swear moves like these are in a gym but that nut dangling behind you reminds you otherwise. Awesome holds over the lip will get you to the top.

Location

From the descent gully turn left and walk a few hundred yards around the buttress. Start at the base of a gully-like weakness in the wall overhead. There are two starts, the left variation (aka Serentripitous) being slightly better quality. The original start can be recognized by the little offwidth towards the end of the pitch.

Protection

One of everything.
Eric Sorte
Albuquerque, NM
 
Eric Sorte   Albuquerque, NM
 
Climbed Built to Tilt this weekend. It took us awhile to find it, so I'll add a few comments on getting there.

From the parking lot, follow the trail as described. After 300 or 400 meters there is a right turn, marked with a trail marker sign that says Shortoff. Take that trail. Continue hiking (~45 minutes) until you get to a very clear sign where Mtn-to-Sea trail crosses your path. Two options from here. To rap down, backtrack a few hundred feet to the large clearing (we posted a photo of it). Walk to the edge and rap down here. GPS coordinates of the rap point are 35.830114,-81.902420.

If you want to do the first several pitches, continue on until you get to the spring (it has a PVC pipe coming out of the hillside; it's very obvious). This is the descent, as mentioned above. Consider stowing your bags here if you brought them; the climb ends a few hundred yards behind you were you would rap down. There is a fifth class section in the gully that has a few fixed ropes on it as of Sept 2016. The path will angle to the left after leaving the gully, and Built to Tilt comes up quickly in a few hundred yards. From the gully, if you keep looking to your left as you descend, you can see the top of second pitch and the roof that is the third pitch. Continue on the trail until you see this big flat rock in the trail. A huge square rock will be on your right.

At that rock, turn left and head up to the wall. You'll see the first pitch, a nice 5.7 crack immediately left of a large offwidth.

P1 - climb that crack. It's pretty fun, actually, though the top has a lot of lichen. It ends on a tree-filled ledge.

P2 - walk up the ledge a bit until you see a big hole in the rock (called a "notch" in another post, but more of a cave really - it's quite large). Climb up the corner under the cave and head up to the base of the pillar under the roof.

P3 - The crack in the obvious dihedral between the pillar and the face. It's off balance - hard for 5.9 I thought. We belayed from the top of the pillar under the roof.

P4 - There's ample protection for the roof moves. Make a few juggy moves out on the roof past the pillar, cut feet, throw a heel up by your ear, and get up there. Great exposure and lots of fun.

I thought the first few pitches were kind of fun. No reason to avoid them. Sep 11, 2016
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
  5.10b
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
  5.10b
You can optionally build a belay on the platform just below the crux. Very solid gear here that allows your belayer to keep you nice and snug while you commit to the airy moves 200' off the deck. I found a decent green alien in a shallow pod about a foot past the keyholed nut placement. Mar 30, 2013
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Hey Robb,

Just rap out of the cave to the far climbers left. One single rope is plenty (only 70' or so), then do a short downclimb to the start of the 5.8 pitch in the gully/ledge. May 16, 2012
hey rock_fencer, any details on the rap in. Tried to rap in cliff right of the climb this past weekend and ended up mid money pitch, and rappelling over some sharp edges. Can you simply set an anchor in the cave, rappel directly over the route, and make the ground in a rope length? I was worried about slope at the base putting the earth out of reach. Mar 27, 2012
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
For harder approach pitches try Energizer, Turn & Burn, or either of the Appalachain runt/Chuffer routes. They all start in roughly the same spot as Serentripitous. Dec 26, 2011
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
  5.10a
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
  5.10a
only three stars because of the approach pitches. Highly suggest to rappel in from the top. From the bottom Start on Serentripitous and climb the fun and mellow crack up to a vegetated ledge. Unrope and bushwack up the hill to a corner under a large notch. Rack up for some 5.8 bucket hauling up to the ledge. Pitch three takes at least three good pieces under the roof if you get nervous. Crank the boulder problem and bucket haul to the top. Oct 24, 2011
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
  5.10b
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
  5.10b
AMAZING EXPOSURE!! May 27, 2010