Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Jim Okel - 1981
Page Views: 13,799 total · 92/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on May 31, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details
Access Issue: Details

Description

An incredible line with the 3rd pitch being one of the proudest pitches of 5.10a trad anywhere.

P1 (5.7) Climb right arching feature to hanging island of trees and shrubbery. Belay then move belay up and climbers right to spot below diehedral way up above you.

P2 (5.8). Climb to base of diehedral. I remember long slings being nice.

P3 (crux). This is why you climb this route! Climb diehedral to its top (5.9) which is actually the top of a pillar under a large horizontal roof. Keyhole a nut in the crack (yep, you heard right!) and commit to the roof. You would swear moves like these are in a gym but that nut dangling behind you reminds you otherwise. Awesome holds over the lip will get you to the top.

Location

From the descent gully turn left and walk a few hundred yards around the buttress. Start at the base of a gully-like weakness in the wall overhead. There are two starts, the left variation (aka Serentripitous) being slightly better quality. The original start can be recognized by the little offwidth towards the end of the pitch.

Protection

One of everything.

Photos