Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Nathan Brown et al 1997
Page Views: 1,927 total · 14/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 18, 2007 with updates from Brian Abram
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details

Description

A very nice mixed route with some great thin face climbing, fun steep pulls, and even a bit of crack climbing! Best way to approach White Corner, in my opinion.
P1: Climb up the slabby face past two bolts to a roof. Place gear in a horizontal beneath the roof and move left, pulling around the roof at an obvious weakness. This puts you on top of a ledge. Climb the finger-sized crack and surrounding horizontals into easier terrain, aiming for the White Corner. Set a belay at the bottom of this large left-facing corner. 5.11a, 100'.

Location

Walking left past Dopey Duck, pass Early Times and scramble down a short (10') chimney between the main wall and a tall boulder. Right before you descend this notch, look at the wall just left of where you're standing. You should see two bolts. You can possibly stick clip one of these bolts from here. There is also a tall evergreen at the base of this route.

Protection

Two bolts, plus mostly small to mid-sized cams for this pitch. Standard Shortoff rack for the White Corner if continuing.
There is a possibility of rapping off of a slung shrub/tree w/ a 60m rope, but it's best to continue into the White Corner and top out.

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
The start felt a little cryptic and harder than the 10c rating. The upper crack move also felt slightly harder than the 11a rating. Lots of big fun moves at the cruxes and definitely cleaner looking than Early Times. Oct 10, 2011
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
I left 2 stainless stoppers at the end of this pitch (P-1) yesterday as a replacement for rapping off that maple sapling - for those who want to climb only the crux pitch. They do not interfere with the original start to white corner (early times). If climbing this line please do not "booty" this anchor. Apr 15, 2013
J2Y
J2Y  
Thanks for adding the stopper anchor. Climbed route couple weeks ago and all was well. Oct 7, 2013
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
  5.11b
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
  5.11b
Apparently all is no longer well. I climbed White Russians about a month ago and the the locker was gone. No biggie. I left a biner and rapped off. Yesterday I came back to climb the route in "better style", and was surprised to see that my junky old 90s biner was now gone.

On an unrelated note, climbing White Russians to White Corner to Sword of the Lord was a jug hauling good time for me. Maybe we could call this link up the White Banana Sword? Apr 28, 2015
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
If you do only the crux pitch you'll need to leave rap gear - the stoppers walked off, again. This is ridiculous. If the hangers weren't bolted to the wall they'd probably be missing too... Way to show appreciation for people contributing their time and hardware. Feb 6, 2017