Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bruce Meneghin, Tom Howard 1977
Page Views: 3,604 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Oct 10, 2007 with updates from Tom Howard
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details

Description

Ohhhh Julia...boy was she good. Three quality pitches of climbing, each as spicy and interesting as the other. P1 - Work up the same corner as Little Corner until you can step left into an overhanging and "liebacking" fingercrack. Climb until the angle eases off and belay. P2 - Traverse left on thin holds and then up. Climb a short shallow dihedral, then up to a chimney/slot (spooky), make committing moves onto the face and climb up to the top of a block/flake under a roof/flake. P3 - Pull the roof on flakes and run up to the top as the angle eases and belay. Hike back to camp and have a cold one...

Location

Start in the same corner as Little Corner.

Protection

Trad, baby!

Photos

Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.10
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
  5.10
We did this in two long pitches. My partner belayed to the right of a tree, below the first roof. I did about a 170 foot pitch to the next big tree ledge on the left. Then we scrambled/soloed up the gully about 30 feet left of the tree.

There is about 20 feet of .10b climbing, with the rest being 5.9 or easier. Great route if your trying to break into the mid-10s... just make sure you get good gear at the crux or you'll land in the top of a tree! Oct 21, 2011
An excellent route with good gear for the crux move. Some of the upper sections are freaky and/or scary, but it all amounts to another fun ride up shortoff. This is one of my favorites so far! You can easily scramble up to the tree below the opening moves and do this in two pitches, though I usually do it 3. Nov 19, 2012
Blake Lehmans
Charlotte, NC
  5.10a
Blake Lehmans   Charlotte, NC
  5.10a
This thing is Awesome! Just as good(if not better) than Constuction Job, but honestly not much harder. This thing is packed with unique movement and fun climbing almost the entire way to the top. Highly recommend this one! Feb 16, 2017
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
Harder than the other 10a's, and you need to have a bag of tricks as each part requires a different style to get through.
We did in 2 pitches (70M). P1 from ground, scrambled to base of finger crack. pushed up to the the large bush-ledge where little corner meets up. P2 from the ledge push up through the roofs and flakes to the top and belayed from large pine. Scrambled off to the left gulley that Ryan mentioned. (30ft of class 4) Apr 10, 2017
Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
 
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
 
There's a loose block about the size of a Coleman stove as you start to head into the business on pitch 1. On the left side of the corner you'll see a nice, inviting ledge/jug. It's actually the top of a loose block that flexes out considerably if you pull on it. Tread lightly! May 1, 2017
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
Jill H.
Spartanburg, SC
 
Jill H.   Spartanburg, SC
 
Iā€™m 5ā€™1ā€ and found P3 crux a bit reachy. My partner who led that pitch could reach the horn from the face footholds but I had to climb all the way up to it from the left so much pumpier. Aug 24, 2018