Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Jim Okel, Bill Newman
Page Views: 5,423 total · 71/month
Shared By: Phil York on Aug 28, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details

Description

Pitch 1, Start on a bouldery crux on the chalked holds through some thin holds to an obvious broken crack feature. Crank through this pumpy crack for about 40 feet to slightly easier terrain then to a horn with slings.

Pitch 2, Climb 5.8ish over a bulge straight to the top of the buttress.

Pitch 3, Head 50 feet to cross a chasm to top out on a short step section to the top.

Location

Located to the left of Stopperhead Arete on the obvious crack system up beautiful solid stone. If you come to the Paradise routes, you've gone too far.

Protection

Typical NC rack.

Photos

Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11d
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11d
Nbrown is correct. The first pitch is about 80 feet. Aug 30, 2013
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
Cleaned up the ridiculous amount of tat at the top of pitch 1 today and left 2 bomber stainless cabled hex-like chocks instead. Much safer and much less of a visual impact. Mar 11, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
Never been, but it's awesome that you took the time to do a line that you've done before and upgrade fixed gear and clean up tat. So thanks. Mar 27, 2015
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
Needs stainless quicklinks on the anchor. Some knucklehead pilfered the biners and left a single rusty quicklink (on the clean stainless cables). This will only enhance degradation time. Seems like 5.11 climbers would know better. Feb 6, 2017
Karsten Delap
North Carolina
  5.11b/c
Karsten Delap   North Carolina
  5.11b/c
One locker and a old quick link at the chains now. Dec 5, 2017
Phil York
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11d
Phil York   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11d
Thank you Karsten, hopefully those will stay for awhile-- and thank you for the ride back to the lower parking area at Looking Glass this past Sunday! Dec 5, 2017
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
Karsten, your locker didn't stay long. Someone pilfered it and replaced it with another cheapo quick link.

I removed the junk today and put a proper stainless link in their place (only had one but another would be good). Feb 27, 2018
Thomas Chapman
Sewanee, TN
Thomas Chapman   Sewanee, TN
Heading to yosemite soonish. Would the first pitch of this make for good CLEAN aid climbing practice? May 31, 2018
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11d
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11d
Not really. Its not really like anything you would climb in yosemite. May 31, 2018
Thomas Chapman
Sewanee, TN
Thomas Chapman   Sewanee, TN
Not really trying to get yosemite style but just the practice of getting back on the aid ladders May 31, 2018