Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: NB and GB
Page Views: 934 total · 9/month
Shared By: nbrown on Oct 17, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

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Access Issue: 2021 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details
Access Issue: Shortoff Mountain South - Falcon Closure Lifted for 2021 Details


This is a fun single pitch line on the backside of the Super Crack/Paradise Alley buttress that is a good bit shadier than most lines there. The climbing is trickier than the average shortoff jug fest and is worth a go, despite a brief secton of semi-chossy rock in the middle.

It can be easily approached by rapping in from the large ledge just below the top of the buttress (instead of doing the step-across move last pitch, climb down about 15' to large ledge, build anchor and rap 90').

Alternatively, it can be accessed by climbing P-1 of "stopperhead arete" or "lichen express", then moving into the gully to the obvious route on the steep left wall.

Start by climbing a cool left leaning flake to crux a section protected by 2 bolts. Continue up wall past lots of gear options in horizontal features and a couple tricky pods - including a bomber pink tricam. Maintain the pump factor and continue up to your rap anchor for belay.


See description and/or topo photo on main page.


Standard rack, plus doubles in small to medium cams and a pink tricam


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