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Just Another Pretty Face
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 11
votes
Routes in Shortoff Mountain
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Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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C. O. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dizzy Gillespie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Early Times T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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False Paradise T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Golden Rule T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Julia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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King of Tulips, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Paradigm Shift T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Paradise Lost T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ralph’s Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Serentripitous T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Short Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Straight Gas Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sword of the Lord T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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White Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Nathan Brown et al |
| Page Views: | 3,616 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Stayner on Sep 20, 2007 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
Great slabby face climbing with a fun roof pull at the top for good measure. One of the best thin faces in the Northern Blue Ridge (in my opinion!). A pretty involved approach, but well worth the effort!
P1: Climb up an easy left-facing corner to a ledge. Angle up and right on the face towards the bolts. Crimp and highstep on excellent edges through the section of two or three bolts (crux) and continue up to a roof. Traverse a bit left under the roof and pull on awesome jugs. End at a fixed anchor. GEAR BETA (read no further if you want to preserve the "onsight"!) Look for a sideways #6 Stopper placement if 5.10b/c, 150'
P2: Head up easy terrain to a tree anchor. 5.7, 60
NOTE: Easily combined with a 70M rope.
P1: Climb up an easy left-facing corner to a ledge. Angle up and right on the face towards the bolts. Crimp and highstep on excellent edges through the section of two or three bolts (crux) and continue up to a roof. Traverse a bit left under the roof and pull on awesome jugs. End at a fixed anchor. GEAR BETA (read no further if you want to preserve the "onsight"!) Look for a sideways #6 Stopper placement if 5.10b/c, 150'
P2: Head up easy terrain to a tree anchor. 5.7, 60
NOTE: Easily combined with a 70M rope.
Location
The route is just left of Bonsai (described in Shull and Lambert's guidebook). I have never approached the route from below and have heard that it's kind of a 'shwack to get over there. I've always utilized an approach/rap in from above.
After doing the final steep climb on the Shortoff approach, the trail levels out a bit (you're now on the clifftop). Look for a small (chest-high) boulder on the left and a larger one on the right. At this small boulder, look for a faint trail leading to the left towards the cliff. Follow it down to a short gully which deposits you below an overhanging ampitheatre with a driplike waterfall. This is a good place to stash packs. From here, continue down and left over some 3rd class scrambling terrain, aiming for a grassy ledge with a tall tree. This is your first rap. There are no slingsI've always just thrown the rope around the tree. This short (50') rap takes you to a fixed hex/nut anchor. From here, you can
a) do a 60m double rope rappel or
b) do two single 60m raps. Be aware that on your second rap, you'll have to rap off of a single bolt (one of the protection bolts on the pitchthey're bomber).
Complicated, but like I said, well worth the effort.
IMPORTANT NOTE: One can rap all the way to the ground with twin 70M ropes from the tree anchor. This is by far the most expedient and straightforward option.
After doing the final steep climb on the Shortoff approach, the trail levels out a bit (you're now on the clifftop). Look for a small (chest-high) boulder on the left and a larger one on the right. At this small boulder, look for a faint trail leading to the left towards the cliff. Follow it down to a short gully which deposits you below an overhanging ampitheatre with a driplike waterfall. This is a good place to stash packs. From here, continue down and left over some 3rd class scrambling terrain, aiming for a grassy ledge with a tall tree. This is your first rap. There are no slingsI've always just thrown the rope around the tree. This short (50') rap takes you to a fixed hex/nut anchor. From here, you can
a) do a 60m double rope rappel or
b) do two single 60m raps. Be aware that on your second rap, you'll have to rap off of a single bolt (one of the protection bolts on the pitchthey're bomber).
Complicated, but like I said, well worth the effort.
IMPORTANT NOTE: One can rap all the way to the ground with twin 70M ropes from the tree anchor. This is by far the most expedient and straightforward option.
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