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Routes in Shortoff Mountain

Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Paradise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Footloose T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Golden Rule T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Julia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
N.B.A. (Nothing But Air) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paradise Lost T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reacharound T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Serentripitous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
White Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rich Gottlieb, Tom McMillan (1977)
Page Views: 7,965 total, 61/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on Apr 2, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

P1- An easy dihedral leads up to two or three ledges. Pick the highest if you want to do the route in 3 pitches.
P2-Stemming in a right facing corner leads to a lieback. Now, power through the roofs above. You will want some TCU's for this pitch. You can keep going through the last roof or belay on a nice ledge on the left.
P3- Gun it to the top.

Location

Go down the descent gully and take a left. Follow the wall around for awhile until you get to a huge right facing dihedral. There will be a crack to the right with a dead pine about 100 ft. up. Construction Job starts on the next major crack system over. There will be some bushes in the crack down low.

Protection

Nothing larger than a #3 camalot. Lots of TCU's nice.
Lewis L
Asheville, NC
 
Lewis L   Asheville, NC
 
Amazing exposure and moves through a beautiful part of the wall. I could not pass the upper belay ledge (~25ft below the end of any difficulty) without stopping. It was just too perfect of a spot and I wanted to hang out a while. Very fun climb. Aug 2, 2017
This is definitely a state of NC classic. Perhaps my favorite in the region so far. Super fun! Feb 20, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
Fantastic route. Two pitches is the way to go, which is what we did. If you sling things long enough and keep in mind how your placements line up you should be good on drag. Nov 14, 2016
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
Did in 3 pitches,
1st - 5.5ish to a large flat ledge. Traversed right on the ledge to set belay besides the Large Block.
2nd - 5.7 slab scramble to the base of the right facing corner. Here's the 5.9 section, fire up this into the flake, keep pulling on jugs, got below roof, traversed right to a big ledge. Belayed here due to rope drag.
3rd - Headed Straight up roof jugs and then 5.4 climbing to the top and anchor on a pine tree. Dec 18, 2014
Stuart Parker
Missoula, MT
  5.10-
Stuart Parker   Missoula, MT
  5.10-
I agree, felt harder than straight and narrow. Be prepared for typical shortoff headgames, gear puzzles and sandbagging! Feb 9, 2014
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9+
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9+
A little tougher than Straight and Narrow. Apr 22, 2013
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
Top shelf climb. Highly recommend the two-pitch method - this makes the money pitch about 150 feet long and too much fun! We didn't have any issues with drag. Nov 5, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Fantastic Route!!! Everything is there, but the roofs can take it out of you if you hang around too long. Place pro and climb on!! Did this climb in two massive pitches however I don't think I would recommend it because of rope drag.

Make sure to watch out for loose rock, found a couple big ones teetering on the edge while I was up there! Oct 10, 2011
mbuntaine
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9
mbuntaine   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9
Amazing climb! More technical and committing than Dopey Duck, with full exposure throughout. Not to be missed.

It is possible to climb this route in two mega-pitches. P1: climb the right facing dihedral & angle right to an arete. Climb to the highest ledge just before the orange streak begins (60m). P2: climb past the crux move under the large flake, angle right towards an arete and pull a few roofs up to a slot that leads to trees ledge (45m). Easy scramble off above. Nov 9, 2009
This is full value and is sustained 5.9 climbing. If you only want to climb the last pitch you can rap down from the bivy cave and traverse over on a ledge system. I haven't done it but two dudes climbed The Golden Rule that way. I have lots of pics on my trip report here OnTheSharpEnd.com - Construction Job Apr 5, 2009