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Northern Comfort
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 15
votes
Routes in Turkey Rock
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Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Brain Front T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chopping Block T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Finger Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hallucinogenic Blues T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Koto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Turkey Challenge aka The Pro T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Where Turkeys Dare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wild Fire T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.11917, -105.23983 |
| FA: | P. Croft, J. Hall, S. Cheyney, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 1,489 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 31, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
Description
Northern Comfort is an independent pitch worth the effort that branches off from the stellar first pitch of 'Southern Comfort.' I went for this option instead of the 5.7 option to finish Southern Comfort in order to keep the grade consistent at the 5.9 level.
P1. Climb P1 of Southern Comfort past the first 'sling belay' opportunity and up into the corner to the right of the overhanging flake and belay off of hand-sized gear (120').
P2. The independent pitch: break left onto semi-positive face holds (5.8-), and climb up with occasional nuts or Aliens up and right, then go up a handcrack with good gear up and left to the summit (70').
With good sling management, this would have likely gone well as a single pitch with a 70m rope. A 60m rope would reach the top but not back to were you need to get to set an anchor, and the bottom is not good simul-climbing material.
Protection
Small stoppers to 3", no additional gear beyond what you'd use for Southern Comfort, really. 1.5-3" gear is available for the belay at mid-climb. Take your choice if you choose to stop there, but be sure to have a few extras in that size to account for that.
I did not find any use for the RPs the Haas book mentions being useful, nor was the route ever runout. Perhaps some judgment about odd placements on the first section of the second pitch merit the PG-13 grade assigned in that book.
1 Comment