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Routes in Turkey Rock

Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,051 total, 19/month
Shared By: Stich Stich on Nov 26, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the slightly J-shaped crack with a flake near the bottom to the left of "Vanishing Point." Use the flake to hand jam/undercling/layback then get into the crack proper with more good hand jamming. Near the top the crack becomes an offwidth that protects with a #5 Camalot you can push up or similar wide pro. Use the bolt and chain anchor for VP to rap.

Protection

Various cams up to #5 Camalot.
Eliot Augusto
Boulder, CO
Eliot Augusto   Boulder, CO
I'm new to climbing and leading (2 months climbing and only a handful of trad leads), but I would wager that the "off-width" start is harder than 5.7. I've been able to lead up to 5.8 so far, and the "off-width" start has to easily be the hardest thing I've climbed. There is great pro as far as I was able to lead. I used up to a #4. Theres a fantastic hand/finger crack, that runs under the flake, inside of the main crack and it will accept 0.3.

From some of the other photos, I think that Nighttime Madness is farther to the left than the wide start.

Maybe my mouth is sour with the taste of defeat, but I hated that climb. I fell 3 times or so and each time my body got stuck in the crack before the rope stopped me. I was also dog tired at the time. Jan 16, 2014
Sagar Gondalia
Golden
 
Sagar Gondalia   Golden
 
My understanding is that it's a 5.7. Although there aren't any moves harder than 5.7 on the climb, it's definitely a continuous workout. Jun 3, 2013
Dave Carey
Morrison, CO
Dave Carey   Morrison, CO
What is the crack just left of Jump Start? I climbed the left crack today thinking it is Night Time Madness, but I am second guessing that now. Apr 22, 2012
Andrew S.
Bouldurr
 
Andrew S.   Bouldurr
 
As a new trad leader, this one was really rough. I started out in the wide crack to left put in a piece or two and transitioned over into the j. Nice jams to a take for quite a few minutes, continue up into the OW, #5 is nice to have about halfway through the thing. Agreed with Stitch, don't get to far in unless you're whining and need to rest like me. There are little knobs and good little flakes to work up this thing. Stop bitchin' and moanin', OH MY GOD! Mar 11, 2012
Climbed this mistakenly thinking it was the .7 that is one climb to the left. Felt significantly harder than p1 of Sayter's Asshole, which our book said goes at .9 if you traverse left. Apr 25, 2011
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
The offwidth part is only hard if you stay deep in the crack. There are face features on the right side of the wide with ample flakes and foot ledges to get up without resorting to chicken wings and foot stacks. Nov 8, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
I did this climb a while ago when I thought I was climbing gobblers grunt. It was hard to find the twin finger cracks above.... anyways, true to beta for gobblers grunt I traversed into the crack to the left right below the wide part. Interesting variation, I'm not sure if it avoids the hard part or not. Sep 30, 2009