Type: Trad
FA: Earl Wiggins 1975
Page Views: 10,614 total · 48/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is an awesome one pitch climb. It starts out kinda wide (fists), and then goes to a really nice finger crack over a bulge, to bolts. Excellent finger jams, and is located in the middle of the rock formation.


Standard rack with nuts, and Aliens.
This climb is totally sick!!! Footwork is the key to being successful on this route. If your ability is not up to leading at this grade. It is possible to climb nighttime madness variation (5.8) twenty feet to the left of Vanishing Point. From the first ledge it is possible to hook into Vanishing Points anchors. Another good sicky is Great White Crime (5.11a) right of Vanishing Point. Jan 1, 2001
The finger crack on the first third of the route is of the best quality. Bomber finger locks up to the crux. The crux was difficult and required just the right foot work. After the bulge the crack opens to hands. Makes a great TR for aspiring 5.10 climbers like myself. Jul 4, 2001
Ah yes, Jimmy Dunn has done it with one hand behind his back.... Jul 6, 2001
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Think crack with your hands and face with your feet; otherwise, it will feel harder. Excellent route. Mar 12, 2002
Matt Juth
Matt Juth   Evergreen
A blue Alien is a lifesaver through the crux. Don't be discouraged, some of the founders of this area (who first did this climb 20 years ago) still hang on this before firing Great White Crime. Jul 25, 2003
Great climbing, quality the entire way. Jul 12, 2004
Fort Collins, CO
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
Don't waste time at the crux! I had more difficulty with this than with GREAT WHITE CRIME. Oct 9, 2005
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Fun climb with bomber pro. Great finger locks all the way up, but pay attention to your feet. I thought this climb was slightly easier than Great White Crime. May 8, 2006
Hamish Gowans
Golden, CO
Hamish Gowans   Golden, CO
One climbing companion, who came from a Rumney/Shelf Road/Hip-Hop background, climbed it on all cams. After lowering, he proclaimed "I'm so over nuts!" So I climbed it next on all nuts in retort. After getting the moves wired, this route became our warmup at Turkey, and I think it's easier than Quivering Quill and comparable to the cruxes on Satyr's Asshole or Straw Turkey. Nov 9, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
On TR at the end of a long day, this was much easier, and less steep, than it looked. One face move at the crux. I may tell a different story when/if I come back to lead it, but perhaps not, as there are good stances just before and just after that one crux move. Nov 9, 2006
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
This one never gets old. Nov 9, 2008
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
Great stances and highly featured granite make this feel like a more sporty face outing than it would appear at the base. Jan 1, 2017