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Routes in Turkey Rock

Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson & Mark Van Horn, 6/6/1981
Page Views: 261 total, 2/month
Shared By: kevin fox on Jul 6, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb twin cracks in a corner. Move up and thin fingers goes to hands. Mantle and jam your way past the hollow sounding rock that you are climbing. Once past this section, you will work up thin finger crack an pull yourself past the bush on to a ledge. Gardening skills maybe in order for this climb. From here, move right to the webbing anchors that are above Finger Licking Good.

Location

This route lies left of the large pine tree. Identify this crack by large bush growing out of it.

Protection

Small gear, nuts, Aliens, and up to #3 Camalot. A weed wacker is helpful.

Photos

- No Photos -
Mark Rolofson
  5.10d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.10d
First ascent: Mark Rolofson & Mark Van Horn on June 6, 1981. The route listed in this route description is the easier variation that was done years later. What attracted me to the climb was the thin, right-angling crack start which is solid .10d (originally rated .11a). This start is left of the 5.9 start beginning off a detached flake. A #4 & two #5 RPs ( 5-6 micro stoppers) & small to small medium stoppers are useful. Mar 16, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Above the top of the crack on P2, where the climb 'forces' you to the right, you CAN keep going directly up to the belay. The moves are steep and a little more insecure. Gear is not exactly great, but it is there, and the climbing is not super-human. Maybe 10d or 11-? Maybe PG-13?

Anyway, a mere mortal can do it, and I'm a bit surprised it has not been done/documented. It might deserve a bolt.

I'd call it 'Trustafarian' as in 'Trust that something will appear for you up there,' in terms of holds and gear. Nov 1, 2016
This is a GREAT pitch of climbing! If you're in the area to do Finger Lickin', then you should totally do this one as well.

...feels 9+. May 28, 2013