Elevation: 8,239 ft
GPS: 39.119, -105.24 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 94,164 total · 396/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

Note: The GPS coordinates for this location as shown on the map will take you to the trailhead not the location of the main crag. To access the main crag, utilize the Approach to Turkey Rocks

This is the main crag in the Turkey Rock area. It has wonderful crack climbing and some scattered face climbing with routes up to 3 pitches in length mostly on its south face. The setting is beautiful, the cracks are plentiful, the difficulties are moderate, and the area is popular. At one point there was an entire guidebooklet devoted to this area with most of the routes on this rock. The granite is known for its coarseness. Taping may be considered for most. The walkoffs are straightforward. Enjoy.

Getting There

For accurate directions to the approach to Turkey Rock, search for Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Do not park in or approach the crags from Turkey Rock Ranch Estates. There is no public parking and the locals do not take this well.

When you approach Turkey Rocks from the campground, you are walking up behind the formations. The trail goes to the top of the hill, and down towards the front of most of the climbs. At the top of the hill, (Looking downhill and away from the climbs) on the left is Turkey Perch. Down, and to the right is Turkey Rock. Turkey Tail is downhill, and left of Turkey Perch.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turkey Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 101
Nightime Madness
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
The Eastern Front
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Stewart's Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 103
Turkey Shoot
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 244
Gobbler's Grunt
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 62
Southern Comfort
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 102
Jump Start
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
The Fiend
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 33
Brain Cramps
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 12
Northern Comfort
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 150
Straw Turkey
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 71
Satyr's Asshole
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 38
Finger Lickin' Good
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 215
Vanishing Point
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 139
Great White Crime
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nightime Madness
 101
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Eastern Front
 36
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stewart's Crack
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Turkey Shoot
 103
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Gobbler's Grunt
 244
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Southern Comfort
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Jump Start
 102
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Fiend
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Brain Cramps
 33
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Northern Comfort
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Straw Turkey
 150
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Satyr's Asshole
 71
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Finger Lickin' Good
 38
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Vanishing Point
 215
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Great White Crime
 139
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Turkey Rock »

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