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Routes in Turkey Rock

Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 8,509 ft
GPS: 39.114, -105.239 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 56,712 total, 275/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is the main crag in the Turkey Rock area. It has wonderful crack climbing and some scattered face climbing with routes up to 3 pitches in length mostly on its south face. The setting is beautiful, the cracks are plentiful, the difficulties are moderate, and the area is popular. At one point there was an entire guidebooklet devoted to this area with most of the routes on this rock. The granite is known for its coarseness. Taping may be considered for most. The walkoffs are straightforward. Enjoy.

Getting There

When you approach Turkey Rocks from the campgound, you are walking up behind the formations. The trail goes to the top of the hill, and down towards the front of most of the climbs. At the top of the hill, (Looking downhill and away from the climbs) on the left is Turkey Perch. Down, and to the right is Turkey Rock. Turkey Tail is downhill, and left of Turkey Perch.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turkey Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightime Madness
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stewart's Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkey Shoot
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gobbler's Grunt
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Comfort
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Fire
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jump Start
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Fiend
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brain Cramps
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Turkey
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Satyr's Asshole
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Finger Lickin' Good
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vanishing Point
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Great White Crime
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
In Style, Out of Fashion
Trad, Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nightime Madness 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Stewart's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Turkey Shoot 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Gobbler's Grunt 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Southern Comfort 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Wild Fire 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Jump Start 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Fiend 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Brain Cramps 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Straw Turkey 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Satyr's Asshole 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Finger Lickin' Good 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Vanishing Point 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Great White Crime 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
In Style, Out of Fashion 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X Trad, Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Turkey Rock »

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Photos

Jack Danneberg
Aspen, CO
Jack Danneberg   Aspen, CO
Howdy, I found a rope on Nighttime Madness on Friday 3/15. If this is your rope, call 303 350 7523 and tell me the color and brand.
Yee Haw! Mar 18, 2013
I was wondering if anyone knows what the fingers/hand crack about 20 ft. right of the 5.6 Nightime Madness 3rd pitch chimney is. It fades out up high and you have to go over a small bulge with virtually no hands and a small nut below you. Felt real real hard. Someone said it was vanishing point but that climb is listed as only 1 pitch.???? Sep 5, 2004
Any idea how close one can get to Big Rock from the Turkey Rocks side, assuming a moderately beefy 4x4? Sep 1, 2004
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
The road is open all the way to the parking area on the backside of Turkey rocks. It is in good shape.It's also open a couple of more miles towards Big rock.9-1-2004 Sep 1, 2004
Yes, for a few weeks now. Sheep's Nose is open as well.

Here's the order from April 28th:

fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/hayres/c…

It basically says the rules are pretty much back to normal, just make sure you only park in designated parking areas, which are marked with signs. May 22, 2003
So are Turkey Rocks open now (as of 5-21-03)? I checked the gov't site above but it was " under construction". Any information is appreciated.

May 21, 2003
The perch is a good area for intermediate climbers like myself. Make sure and do Stephenwolf which is a classic 5.9 and a bit of a grunt in several places. Make sure and bring some tape gloves too. Awsome area, free camping, friendly climbers, bomber granite and not crowded during the week. May 19, 2003
I just talked to Pete Gallager at the Forest Service yesterday (April 22, 2003) and he said that there will most likely be a limited reopening of the Hayman burn areas on April 28th, 2003. Sheep's Nose will probably be accessible as normal, but climbers may only be able to access Turkey by foot from Stump Ranch...a long hike.

He was sure to emphasize that the decision is a "fluid" one, so don't count on anything for sure. Check fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/ for press releases, especially as we approach the April 28th date. Apr 22, 2003
I don't get this way much but might go over the weekend. Is it still closed? Oct 1, 2002
Jeremy Monahan
Fort Fun, CO
Jeremy Monahan   Fort Fun, CO
Thanks a million dan. I'm glad I didn't head up there today. j monahan Jul 12, 2002


It is my understanding that all of the Pike national forest is closed due to the Hayman fire. this includes the Turkey rocks area. bummer. The south platte areas near Pine are all private land so they are still open.



Jul 11, 2002
An alternate, and IMO easier, approach is to continue on FR 360 for approximately 1 mile past the campground sign. Take the first left after you get to the top of the hill (there used to be a tree marked with a red "dot" here), and follow that road until you reach one of two or three indistinct parking areas. Hike straight up and slightly right, aiming for the obvious low point of the ridge, and you will soon find yourself directly above Turkey Perch. Jul 24, 2001

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