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Elevation: 8,239 ft 2,511 m
GPS: 39.11917, -105.23983
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 130,548 total · 457/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Note: The GPS coordinates for this location as shown on the map will take you to the trailhead not the location of the main crag. To access the main crag, utilize the Approach to Turkey Rocks

This is the main crag in the Turkey Rock area. It has wonderful crack climbing and some scattered face climbing with routes up to 3 pitches in length mostly on its south face. The setting is beautiful, the cracks are plentiful, the difficulties are moderate, and the area is popular. At one point there was an entire guidebooklet devoted to this area with most of the routes on this rock. The granite is known for its coarseness. Taping may be considered for most. The walkoffs are straightforward. Enjoy.

Getting There Suggest change

For accurate directions to the approach to Turkey Rock, search for Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Do not park in or approach the crags from Turkey Rock Ranch Estates. There is no public parking and the locals do not take this well.

When you approach Turkey Rocks from the campground, you are walking up behind the formations. The trail goes to the top of the hill, and down towards the front of most of the climbs. At the top of the hill, (Looking downhill and away from the climbs) on the left is Turkey Perch. Down, and to the right is Turkey Rock. Turkey Tail is downhill, and left of Turkey Perch.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turkey Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 129
Nightime Madness
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
Chopping Block
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 38
Stewart's Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 121
Turkey Shoot
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 300
Gobbler's Grunt
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 74
Southern Comfort
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 127
Jump Start
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 73
The Fiend
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 39
Brain Cramps
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 15
Northern Comfort
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 185
Straw Turkey
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 82
Satyr's Asshole
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 55
Finger Lickin' Good
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 260
Vanishing Point
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 165
Great White Crime
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nightime Madness
 129
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Chopping Block
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Stewart's Crack
 38
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Turkey Shoot
 121
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Gobbler's Grunt
 300
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Southern Comfort
 74
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Jump Start
 127
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Fiend
 73
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Brain Cramps
 39
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Northern Comfort
 15
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Straw Turkey
 185
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Satyr's Asshole
 82
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Finger Lickin' Good
 55
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Vanishing Point
 260
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Great White Crime
 165
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Turkey Rock »

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