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Routes in Turkey Rock

Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,285 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chris Barlow on Sep 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the route that follows the bulging wall that one descends when rapping off the anchor on the first pitch of Straw Turkey. It is a somewhat popular toprope but has only been led once to my knowledge.

To climb it, start on Straw Turkey, following it to the top of the first steep dihedral. Here, instead of continuing up the next dihedral, move left about five feet along a horizontal under a one foot roof. In the middle of the bulge, load up the horizontal with cams, maybe a stopper or two, and cast off into the overhang above via thin edges until you do a long pull to a good horn. Continue straight up the slab (5.8 or 5.9, no protection) until you rejoin Straw Turkey for the final flake section and step right.

The pro is just below your feet for the last hard move and the fall is clean; after that, I wouldn't recommend falling. You can also toprope (2 ropes) easily from the cable anchor on top of Straw Turkey.

Protection

Bring a set of stoppers, a doubles set of TCUs to a #0.75 Camalot, and a #1 and #2 Camalot.

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