Avg: 2.4 from 84 votes
|Page Views:||7,476 total · 36/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Keyser on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionYou can climb four pitches, or one. You can TR Vanishing Point, and a couple others from the top of the 1st pitch.
P1. Climb a nice crack that wanders left to a belay.
P2. Climb up a chimney with hidden holds.
P3 & 4. Continue to the top, and walk off.
For a few more details, from boulderkeith:
P1: Climb solid jams through the steep bottom moves. At the sloping ledge halfway up the pitch either traverse left ~8' for a wider 5.7 crack with lots of face holds or head straight up for 5.8 hands. Both are recommended. If you choose the left crack, protect high in the crack with a long sling for your second and belay to the right at the base of the P2 crack.
P2: Climb up the wide crack (it isn't really a chimney) using face footholds. Without the face holds, this pitch would be tough. Near the top, you'll see a fixed steel cable belay. While you can use this belay (check condition!), it may limit your choices for P3.
P3: There are three ways that I know to do this pitch. First, climb the left flaring offwidth above the steel cable anchor. I believe this variation is 5.8. It looks like Hubbel calls this the Pillar Variation at 5.8+. Second, you can foot traverse from the left to the right at the steel cable. I believe this is how Hubbel draws the route. Third, you can climb the right crack in which case belaying from below the right crack is safer for you and your second.
The right side is 5.8 IMO beginning with some wide crack and face holds and moving into good jams. Eventually you'll move left slightly to a finger crack and then back right to the base of P4 chimney. Be sure to protect at the top of the cracks before traversing to protect your second.
P4: This chimney has plentiful face holds. If you are leading, you'll have to choose: out on the face holds = very little pro (significant R/X factor) but more pleasant climbing or thrutch into the back of the crack for some vertical whale moves (which I enjoyed). In the back of the crack, you can sling a chockstone and there is also a #4 Camalot placement. A #5/#6 Camalot might allow you to avoid the deep tunneling. In either case, either get back out on the face holds or thrutch/heel toe your way up to the top where you can go over the boulder or tunnel under. Belay at the top of a small low angle slab.