Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Brian Teale & Dan Morrison (1976)
Page Views: 115 total · 17/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Oct 1, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is an obscure route on the south face of Turkey Rock. It's a bit dirty and brushy in a few places but overall pretty clean and worth doing.

P1. Start up the big, easy chimney system, moving right when it splits in two. The climbing here is well-protected and no harder than 5.7. After a section of good hands, engage the crux, a finger crack with tricky feet. Finish up with a thrashy squeeze slot protected by a #6 cam. Belay at a good ledge above the slot. This a long pitch, about 150 feet.

P2. Make a few awkward moves to overcome some chockstones above the belay, and tackle a roof with a perfect hand crack. Above the roof, the crack narrows to fingers. When the crack ends, step left to join Turkey Shoot, and finish the pitch up low angle double cracks (one hand-sized, the other #4). Belay on a big ledge as you would for Turkey Shoot. This is a great 5.8 pitch.

P3. Climb the last pitch of Turkey Shoot (5.8 offwidth protected by a #6 Camalot) to the top.

To descend, do the standard walkoff to the east.

Location

Begin in the large chimney system on the left side of the south face, immediately right of the classic Turkey Shoot.

Protection

A standard rack to #6 Camalot.

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