Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 75 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Steve Cheyney, late 1970s|
|Page Views:||630 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||rob bauer on Sep 25, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This is not my route, but we climbed it yesterday, and it ought to be represented here. It's thin, steep, and exposed, connecting thin cracks with devious face climbing. There is pro, perhaps only PG-13 with small cams and your comfort level. The crux(es) may be leaving the first crack and definitely leaving the last one. If the 2nd pitch of Gobbler's Grunt was fun, this might be for you. Brilliant!
This is the leftmost route on the face, left of Southern Comfort, in the corridor between the South Face and the Leftovers. The initial crack starts up left of the big rock/flake leaning against the South Face before you get to the big tree.
RPs, nuts up to about BD #8, and I used 2 x #0.3s, 1 x #0.4, 1 x #0.5 Camalots and a blue (?) Alien [2 would've been great] with a #0.75 & #1 Camalot for the anchor at a broken ledge. We then wandered up a bit and about 35' left to a rap anchor in some tied-off rocks. (Yeah, we skipped the 2nd pitch.) A 60m rope would be plenty for that rap.