Type: Trad, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Webster & Kevin Murray, 1978
Page Views: 588 total · 14/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Oct 18, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Little Edward's Little Overhang is an obscure Turkey Rocks route that, as the name implies, poses an interesting roof problem.

Start by climbing a slightly licheny, right-facing corner, and then make a few PG-13 rated 5.8-5.9 moves to gain a broken finger crack above. Follow the crack to the well-protected roof, and use a big jug and the #3 crack directly above to overcome it. Finish up on easier terrain to the anchor.

There is apparently a low quality second pitch, but I did not climb it.

Location

Look for a large roof on the far right (east) end of the crag. It's approximately 30-40 feet off the deck. Begin beneath it in a right-facing corner to the right of The Fiend.

Protection

A standard rack with doubles in finger and hand sizes. There is a cable anchor at the top.

Photos

Carol Fittell
Kansas City, MO
 
Carol Fittell   Kansas City, MO
 
I thought the roof was tricky to protect, and the crack above is #3 in the middle, but #2 at the base and #1 a little higher. Jul 1, 2018