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Little Edward's Little Overhang
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 20
votes
Routes in Turkey Rock
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Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Brain Front T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chopping Block T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Finger Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hallucinogenic Blues T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Koto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Turkey Challenge aka The Pro T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Where Turkeys Dare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wild Fire T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.11917, -105.23983 |
| FA: | Ed Webster & Kevin Murray, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,681 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Oct 18, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
No access from the Turkey Rock Ranch Estates neighborhood.
Description
Little Edward's Little Overhang is an obscure Turkey Rocks route that, as the name implies, poses an interesting roof problem.
Start by climbing a slightly licheny, right-facing corner, and then make a few 5.8-5.9 moves protected by small nuts to gain a broken finger crack above. Follow the crack to the well-protected roof, and use a big jug and the #3 crack directly above to overcome it. Finish up on easier terrain to the anchor.
There is apparently a low quality second pitch, but I did not climb it.
Location
Look for a large roof on the far right (east) end of the crag. It's approximately 30-40 feet off the deck. Begin beneath it in a right-facing corner to the right of The Fiend.
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