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Routes in Turkey Rock

Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brain Front T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Where Turkeys Dare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Fire T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Webster & Kevin Murray, 1978
Page Views: 549 total · 15/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Oct 18, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Little Edward's Little Overhang is an obscure Turkey Rocks route that, as the name implies, poses an interesting roof problem.

Start by climbing a slightly licheny, right-facing corner, and then make a few PG-13 rated 5.8-5.9 moves to gain a broken finger crack above. Follow the crack to the well-protected roof, and use a big jug and the #3 crack directly above to overcome it. Finish up on easier terrain to the anchor.

There is apparently a low quality second pitch, but I did not climb it.

Location

Look for a large roof on the far right (east) end of the crag. It's approximately 30-40 feet off the deck. Begin beneath it in a right-facing corner to the right of The Fiend.

Protection

A standard rack with doubles in finger and hand sizes. There is a cable anchor at the top.

Photos

Carol Fittell
Kansas City, MO
 
Carol Fittell   Kansas City, MO
 
I thought the roof was tricky to protect, and the crack above is #3 in the middle, but #2 at the base and #1 a little higher. Jul 1, 2018

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