Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Steve Cheyney
Page Views: 103 total · 15/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Oct 1, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Make an insecure move or two to get out of the approach gully and into the left of two cracks on the right wall. Despite the name of this climb, this crack is mostly tight hands with only a few fingers. When the crack ends, step left, and climb an easy, wide chimney system to a comfortable ledge at the top of the slot. The Haas guidebook lists this as a single pitch route, but we chose to set up a belay here before the final offwidth.

Tackle the short but grunty offwidth on the left, which is probably the crux of the climb. A #6 Camalot is required here. Alternatively, finish via the short offwidth on the right, which apparently also goes at 5.8 and looks to require a #6 as well, though I did not climb it.

To descend, begin the standard walkoff to the east, and then scramble down the north side when the terrain allows.

Haas gives this route two stars, but I don't agree with that assessment. The tight hand crack is nice, but the route is so dirty and licheny that I'd recommend safety glasses. Seriously!

Location

This route is on the left side of the north face of Turkey Rock. Access it by scrambling up the obnoxious, dirty gully system left of Rastafarian. We set up a belay where we no longer felt ok soloing up the gully. On the right wall, you'll find two thin cracks. This route begins up the left of the two cracks. The right crack is Curving Crack Variation, which is actually a totally independent line.

Protection

A standard rack to #6 Camalot. The Haas guidebook suggests two # 6 Camalots, but a second #6 seemed completely unnecessary. If you burn up your #6 before the final short headwall (we did not), you can easily set up a comfy belay here, so you get your #6 back for the offwidth finish.

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