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Routes in Turkey Rock

Brain Cramps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Front T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eastern Front, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiend, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,566 total · 41/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Jul 6, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Note: this climb is not to be confused with Finger Lickin' Good at Lumpy. I changed the name from Hubbel's guide to Finger Licking Good (with a "g") to avoid confusion.

On the seldom climbed north face of Turkey Rock -- visible from the parking lot -- is a pink crack bisecting the rock, perhaps 50 feet long. On a hot sunny summer day, this shaded route is an excellent destination.

Locate the highest tree on the North side. Above it is the crack -- you can't miss it. Belay at this tree, getting there via a gully to the left of the tree.

P1. Head 3 feet left of the tree into a low angle #3 crack which leads to a thin crack in a right-facing dihedral, 5.9 (alternate: go right of the tree into an obvious dihedral), 80 feet.

P2. Climb up the stunning crack, 10d, which takes good gear, to a ledge with slings.

You can rap with 2 ropes, or continue up Wild Fire, 5.9, a worthy and well-protected pitch that brings you to the summit. For Wild Fire, head right around the corner and arrive at an alcove. Ascend the broken crack until the ledge. The crux felt harder than 5.9. Then move left, thru a slot to the top, 100 feet.

Walk off left.

Protection

Standard rack to #3. Use slings after pitch 2; you can rap with 2 ropes. Otherwise, you can do a third pitch and walk off left.

Photos

nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
The last 15 feet of this route warrant its getting 3 stars (amazing finger locks with great pro on perfect granite) - below that, the climbing is merely "very good"...

We did the 2 pitches described above as 1 pitch with no problems. A 60m line gets you to the big tree you started from. Oct 9, 2005
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.10d
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.10d
Climbed this route on Sunday July 25th with Mike Keegan, spectacular! Very comparable to Vanishing Point, maybe a little bit harder? We continued up above the 2nd pitch anchors, WildFire? Maybe? If indeed this was WildFire, it was much harder than 5.9, in my opinion! There is a short section in the first dihedral, slightly overhanging, no hands, huge stem, no way this is 5.9! Jul 27, 2010
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.10+
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.10+
1 pitch is the right way to do this. I found the lower section very pleasing on the way to the awesome finger crack. Wildfire is a great second pitch finish/top out to this and is 5.10. Sep 13, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Great crack with difficulty being dependent on finger size. Could be 10-, could be 10+. Oct 30, 2016
SammyJ
Colorado springs
 
SammyJ   Colorado springs
 
If you start to the right of the big tree, your belayer can have eyes on you the whole time. The corner crack climbs pretty well. Apr 30, 2018
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
This thing eats 0.3-0.4s. No wide cam needed for the pod, a 0.75 fits well in the back. A good TR anchor/directional can be made with #2-#4 C4s at the top of the splitter. A 70m got us down just fine, the cordage looks newish. Jul 23, 2018

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