Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Earl Wiggins?, 1970s
Page Views: 8,338 total · 42/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Jul 6, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

Note: this climb is not to be confused with Finger Lickin' Good at Lumpy. I changed the name from Hubbel's guide to Finger Licking Good (with a "g") to avoid confusion.

On the seldom climbed north face of Turkey Rock -- visible from the parking lot -- is a pink crack bisecting the rock, perhaps 50 feet long. On a hot sunny summer day, this shaded route is an excellent destination.

Locate the highest tree on the North side. Above it is the crack -- you can't miss it. Belay at this tree, getting there via a gully to the left of the tree.

P1. Head 3 feet left of the tree into a low angle #3 crack which leads to a thin crack in a right-facing dihedral, 5.9 (alternate: go right of the tree into an obvious dihedral), 80 feet.

P2. Climb up the stunning crack, 10d, which takes good gear, to a ledge with slings.

You can rap with 2 ropes, or continue up Wild Fire, 5.9, a worthy and well-protected pitch that brings you to the summit. For Wild Fire, head right around the corner and arrive at an alcove. Ascend the broken crack until the ledge. The crux felt harder than 5.9. Then move left, thru a slot to the top, 100 feet.

Walk off left.

Protection

Standard rack to #3. Use slings after pitch 2; you can rap with 2 ropes. Otherwise, you can do a third pitch and walk off left.

Photos