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Routes in Turkey Rock

Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brain Front T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Where Turkeys Dare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Fire T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Mack Johnson, 1980
Page Views: 3,550 total · 17/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Aug 30, 2001 with updates from Mack Johnson
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

On Turkey Rocks, this route is about 75 feet to the right of Vanishing Point and can be started in a couple ways. The guidebook topo wasn't too clear, but you start up one of two cracks that both lead to a slightly overhanging section with an old piton. The left crack goes right around a small tree (about a foot tall), and up without disturbing the tree! The right crack goes up a right-facing dihedral and moves left. Crank through the section after the piton. The rest of the route is a wider section which is more chimney than OW, but still a little grunting was going on.... Fun, fairly short pitch.

Edit: description above could be eastern front per comments, but it's been 15+ years, and I definitely have a "brain cramp". I think L to R is Brain Cramp, Eastern Front, and Fiend. If somebody has a better description, feel free.

Edit from Mack Johnson: I believe I did the FA of this route in 1980, though someone may correct me. It was my first route with brass nuts, especially handy before micro-cams. We did not place any fixed pins.

Protection

Standard rack, a couple wider pieces perhaps. I took up to a 4.5 cam....

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I think Joe's description is incorrect for the start, although I'm no Turkey Rocks expert. I think Joe is describing two possible starts for The Eastern Front, 5.8. Immediately right of Straw Turkey is a short crack that leads to a small overhang. Right of that, on a blunt arete is another nice looking crack. Just right of that arete is a right facing corner. The second crack and corner both lead to the left edge of a large roof. I believe that's what Joe is describing, and that's Eastern Front. Brain Cramps is a little further left. Eastern Front and Brain Cramps converge at the wide crack. See the photos I've posted. Nov 9, 2006
jmeizis
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
jmeizis   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
This description seems to fit in with what I climbed and the topo from the Hubbel/Rolofson guidebook. If this isn't Brain Cramps then I don't know what is, because the climb right of it is too easy, the climb left is harder and there wouldn't be another climb between Brain Cramps and Satyr's Assholed but Straw Turkey is there. I think this is the right climb. Sep 19, 2009
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
I added descriptions and photos for The Eastern Front and The Fiend. Hope that helps avoid confusion. Nov 4, 2009
doligo
 
doligo  
 
Ken Trout's book says it's Straw Turkey's clone. I didn't find any similarities between these two climbs. Sep 29, 2011

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