Type: Trad
FA: Mack Johnson, 1980
Page Views: 3,967 total · 17/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Aug 30, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

On Turkey Rocks, this route is about 75 feet to the right of Vanishing Point and can be started in a couple ways. The guidebook topo wasn't too clear, but you start up one of two cracks that both lead to a slightly overhanging section with an old piton. The left crack goes right around a small tree (about a foot tall), and up without disturbing the tree! The right crack goes up a right-facing dihedral and moves left. Crank through the section after the piton. The rest of the route is a wider section which is more chimney than OW, but still a little grunting was going on.... Fun, fairly short pitch.

Edit: description above could be eastern front per comments, but it's been 15+ years, and I definitely have a "brain cramp". I think L to R is Brain Cramp, Eastern Front, and Fiend. If somebody has a better description, feel free.

Edit from Mack Johnson: I believe I did the FA of this route in 1980, though someone may correct me. It was my first route with brass nuts, especially handy before micro-cams. We did not place any fixed pins.

Protection

Standard rack, a couple wider pieces perhaps. I took up to a 4.5 cam....

Photos