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Routes in Turkey Rock

Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,216 total, 27/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This great route is located on the south face of Turkey Rock. It offers a wide range of climbing from finger cracks to chickenhead covered slabs. Every pitch is good quality and unique.

From the draw between Turkey Perch and Turkey Rock, walk along the base of Turkey Rock past Turkey Shoot (5.9-) and up the hill past Gobbler's Grunt towards the South shoulder of the formation. Rope up on a ledge below a splitter 5.9 finger crack on the left and a wide 5.7 corner crack on the right. The finger crack is obvious.

Pitch 1: do a quick boulder move up to the next ledge and follow a sustained and steep finger crack up through the face via locks and jams past a small overlap to another small ledge. Continue up 10 more feet of easier climbing to a fixed anchor at a slung chockstone, 75 feet, 5.9 splitter. Variation: climb corner on the right to just below the roof on pitch two, 5.7.

Pitch 2: move right 15 feet on face holds towards a small roof and pass it on the right via a fun 5.8 hand crack in the corner. Follow this crack up and right until it peters out. Begin to face climb and traverse up and right on good holds (5.7) until your reach a left-facing, corner system and belay at a comfortable stance above. This pitch requires good use of runners, it can be broken into two if needed. The face climbing is a tad bit run-out but on positive holds, 170 feet, 5.8, varied and enjoyable. Variation: 5.9S or 10bVS.

Pitch 3: face climb straight up on big holds slinging chickenheads for pro to a small bulge with a crack in it. Cross the bulge and continue up easy slabs to the summit belay, 75 feet, 5.7, short and sweet.

Descent: walk off climber's right.

Bryson Slothower

Protection

Gear up to 3" extra finger and hand size, a few long runners and a 60 meter rope.
Hunter S
Monument, Colorado
Hunter S   Monument, Colorado
My partner accidentally overcammed a #1 BD Camalot in the narrowing crack at the second pitch belay. If anyone manages to get it out, please shoot me an email (hunterclimbing@gmail.com) to receive a reward for returning the cam. Thanks! Mar 27, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
A variation called 'Northern Comfort' is a fun way to keep this route in the 5.9 range a little longer.

P1. Climb P1 up into the corner to the right of the overhanging flake and belay off of hand-sized gear (120').

P2. Break left onto semi-positive face holds (5.8-), and climb up with occasional nuts or Aliens up and right, then go up a handrcrack with good gear up and left to the summit (70') (FA: Croft, Hall Cheyney, Sept. 1975).

With good sling management, this would have likely gone well as a single pitch with a 70m rope. A 60m rope would reach the top but not back to were you need to get to set an anchor, and the bottom is not good simul-climbing material. Oct 30, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
P1 is a little slick, both for hands and feet. It felt like 5.9+ as a warm-up.
This route can easily be done in 2 pitches and probably as one pitch with not much difficulty. Clip a 3' sling on the first 'belay', and continue through the traverse up and right to the right under the giant flake below then up into the corner. You can belay there to stop and the break back left to finish on 5.9 as 'Northern Comfort' (5.9-) or just put in another long sling and continue up and right to finish, belaying when you merge with Gobblers Grunt... or continuing to the very top if you have enough rope (80m?). Oct 30, 2016
Moritz B.  
 
Here is some extra beta for the second pitch:
There were no fixed slings when we did this climb. Instead, build your own anchor on a little ledge. We slung a boulder and protected it from upward force by having it pulled down with a #2. From here, you start the airy traverse underneath the roof. Halfway through you get to place a #3. When you reach the 5.8 crack, you get another piece in. Head up this handcrack, and when it vanishes, head up and right and join the second pitch of Gobler´s Grunt. Have fun, it´s awesome! Apr 14, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
The first pitch crack is described as a "finger crack", but it is hand sized in several spots. It will take several #2 Camalots and a #3 near the top. The pitch two traverse is easier than it looks, but I only found one decent piece of gear about 1/3 of the way across it. May 6, 2010
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
The last pitch is the same as for Gobbler's Grunt, accept you bypass the belay for the start. The 5.8 hand crack at the start of pitch two widens up to chicken wing size right after you get in it, incidentally. The traverse after that is pretty wild! May 23, 2009
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
First pitch finger crack was very hard for us, but isn't a hairy lead since nuts fit in everywhere. You can set up a toprope and work on your technique, the rope won't get in the way since the anchor is off to the side. Both my partner and I struggled with the feet and with finding good locks for the first thirty feet or so. Great place to practice.

As for the rest of the climb, it's great as well. The pro is there, except for the traverses which are brief. More fun on lead, I think, but when is that not true? May 26, 2004
What a fine climb. Reminicent of [Cochise Stronghold] for sure. [The] second pitch has some airy moves on the two traverses. Three stars for sure, and not an easy 5.9. Aug 6, 2003