Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,998 total · 28/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

This great route is located on the south face of Turkey Rock. It offers a wide range of climbing from finger cracks to chickenhead covered slabs. Every pitch is good quality and unique.

From the draw between Turkey Perch and Turkey Rock, walk along the base of Turkey Rock past Turkey Shoot (5.9-) and up the hill past Gobbler's Grunt towards the South shoulder of the formation. Rope up on a ledge below a splitter 5.9 finger crack on the left and a wide 5.7 corner crack on the right. The finger crack is obvious.

Pitch 1: do a quick boulder move up to the next ledge and follow a sustained and steep finger crack up through the face via locks and jams past a small overlap to another small ledge. Continue up 10 more feet of easier climbing to a fixed anchor at a slung chockstone, 75 feet, 5.9 splitter. Variation: climb corner on the right to just below the roof on pitch two, 5.7.

Pitch 2: move right 15 feet on face holds towards a small roof and pass it on the right via a fun 5.8 hand crack in the corner. Follow this crack up and right until it peters out. Begin to face climb and traverse up and right on good holds (5.7) until your reach a left-facing, corner system and belay at a comfortable stance above. This pitch requires good use of runners, it can be broken into two if needed. The face climbing is a tad bit run-out but on positive holds, 170 feet, 5.8, varied and enjoyable. Variation: 5.9S or 10bVS.

Pitch 3: face climb straight up on big holds slinging chickenheads for pro to a small bulge with a crack in it. Cross the bulge and continue up easy slabs to the summit belay, 75 feet, 5.7, short and sweet.

Descent: walk off climber's right.

Bryson Slothower

Protection

Gear up to 3" extra finger and hand size, a few long runners and a 60 meter rope.

Photos