Avg: 3 from 49 votes
Routes in Turkey Rock
|Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X|
|Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Wild Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||5,216 total, 27/month|
|Shared By:||Bryson Slothower on Mar 3, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis great route is located on the south face of Turkey Rock. It offers a wide range of climbing from finger cracks to chickenhead covered slabs. Every pitch is good quality and unique.
From the draw between Turkey Perch and Turkey Rock, walk along the base of Turkey Rock past Turkey Shoot (5.9-) and up the hill past Gobbler's Grunt towards the South shoulder of the formation. Rope up on a ledge below a splitter 5.9 finger crack on the left and a wide 5.7 corner crack on the right. The finger crack is obvious.
Pitch 1: do a quick boulder move up to the next ledge and follow a sustained and steep finger crack up through the face via locks and jams past a small overlap to another small ledge. Continue up 10 more feet of easier climbing to a fixed anchor at a slung chockstone, 75 feet, 5.9 splitter. Variation: climb corner on the right to just below the roof on pitch two, 5.7.
Pitch 2: move right 15 feet on face holds towards a small roof and pass it on the right via a fun 5.8 hand crack in the corner. Follow this crack up and right until it peters out. Begin to face climb and traverse up and right on good holds (5.7) until your reach a left-facing, corner system and belay at a comfortable stance above. This pitch requires good use of runners, it can be broken into two if needed. The face climbing is a tad bit run-out but on positive holds, 170 feet, 5.8, varied and enjoyable. Variation: 5.9S or 10bVS.
Pitch 3: face climb straight up on big holds slinging chickenheads for pro to a small bulge with a crack in it. Cross the bulge and continue up easy slabs to the summit belay, 75 feet, 5.7, short and sweet.
Descent: walk off climber's right.