Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 253 total · 2/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Sep 24, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Begin as for Dogs of Furniture, in a corner system that is immediately downhill and to the right of the gigantic Shear Shark Attack roof. You might be able to locate some slings wrapped around a block at the top of the first pitch. To your right will be a steep slab containing a couple of very bold looking routes protected by old Leeper bolt hangers (Dogs of Furniture and Slab Center).

Pitch 1. Climb the crack up and to the left until reaching a ledge at the base of a wide section. There may be slings wrapped around blocks at this stance, 5.8, 100 feet.

Pitch 2. (Note - this could easily be combined with pitch one) Step right and pull through an overhang and climb the face above, veering back to the left as the climbing allows. Belay at the top of a nice pillar that forms the first part of the climb. There may be a sling wrapped around a block at this belay 5.8 50 feet. Alternately, head straight up from the belay ledge, and battle the wide stuff to reach the same fate.

Pitch 3. Continue to climb left and up, following a nice crack up a slab to reach a belay in a corner or step back to the right to very a spacious ledge and belay. Above you will be a small, wide section capped by a very nice hand crack, 5.4, 50 feet.

Pitch 4. Squeeze up through the wide section, and stem wide to get established in the hand crack above. The hand crack is excellent and makes the climb well worth doing for just this section alone. Too bad it doesn't last any longer than 20 feet or so. Crank over the top of the crack to reach lower angled terrain above. Run out the rope as far as you feel comfortable and make a belay, 5.8, 100 feet.

Scramble up and over the summit to make your way down left, along the top of Turkey Rock. Turn back to the North when convenient and scramble back to the base of the route.

Protection

Take standard Turkey Rock rack. A #4 Camalot is handy on the first pitch. Above the first pitch, mostly hand-size and smaller pieces are handy.

Photos

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Sarah Meiser
Boulder, CO
 
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, CO
 
The wide stuff on P2 does not require any wide climbing techniques and is not a battle. It is well protected with gear to #4 Camalot and is quite interesting and fun with some neat holds. It is easier than it looks.

The Haas guidebook lists this as a 2 pitch climb, combining P1&2 and P3&4. This works well for the first two pitches, but I had pretty bad rope drag combing the top two pitches. Best to split those ones up as described above. Oct 1, 2018