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Routes in Turkey Rock

Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: John Sherwood & Don Doucette - '70s
Page Views: 1,577 total, 16/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Nov 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The Fiend is three climbs right of Straw Turkey on the sunny side of Turkey Rock. It climbs a steep slab with a splitter finger crack leading to a small roof. Crank the roof, continue straight up on easier terrain, and finish up a wide crack in a right-facing corner.

Protection

Standard rack to 4". There is a fixed anchor. A 70m rope will reach.

Photos

Tim Banfield
Calgary, Alberta
  5.9
Tim Banfield   Calgary, Alberta
  5.9
60m rope makes it if you rap from the cables. It is close though May 28, 2011
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
This is a fun climb with a lot of variety. IMO, this is a great climb for the competent sport climber who is just getting into trad and crack climbing as it requires a bit of crack technique but offers plenty of face climbing options as well.

I left a #11 BD stopper on the climb on 3/26/11. It's about 2/3 of the way up the climb. I discovered that my nut tool was on the ground, and it was getting too late to go back down for it. So, there's bootie to be had or, if you retrieve it and you're into good karma and beer, please send me a PM. Mar 27, 2011