Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bryan Becker 1977
Page Views: 7,228 total · 37/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on May 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Located on the south face of Turkey Rock, this route starts to the right of the bolted arete (In Style, Out of Fashion). This is in the lowpoint of the right side of the rock. Similar climbing to that of Vanishing Point with good fingers in the seams and feet where you need them. Start up incipient cracks until a step left is necessary. Reach for the handcrack, and it's over. It is 70' to a chain anchor.

Protection

TCUs, RPs, and #2 Camalot for the upper hand crack.

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Photos

Tina enjoying the last lap of the day.
Tina enjoying the last lap of the day.
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Adam Sinner looking for pro on May 17, 2008.
Adam Sinner looking for pro on May 17, 2008.
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Steve Samuelson, c. 1995.
Steve Samuelson, c. 1995.
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Stepping left to the handcrack after the crux.
Stepping left to the handcrack after the crux.
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The route follows the prominant crack in the center of the photo, then face climbs up and left to the handcrack.
The route follows the prominant crack in the ce…
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9 Comments

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TBD
 
TBD  
 
A larger RP will protect the crux very well, and a slightly larger nut can back this up a couple feet below. Very good climbing, but the difficulty is not sustained. Lots of moves in the 10 range with maybe 2 moves at easier 11. Jul 12, 2004
Greaser
  5.10d
Greaser  
  5.10d
I have fond memories of climbing this. Great route. To bad it was not a lot longer.

Is Turkey Rocks open now? Sep 23, 2004
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
I thought this was easier than VANISHING POINT. Protection is better than it looks from the ground. The purple Metolius TCU is your friend! Oct 9, 2005
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11a
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11a
This is a great route with good pro as long as you have small cams. Nice balancy moves through the crux, one of the best short climbs I've done in the Platte. May 8, 2006
chad michael davis
chad michael davis  
You can lead this climb with stoppers only and have gear over your head for nearly every move. The crux in particular, where the climbing is thinnest, takes perfect bottleneck wires. Aug 14, 2006
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
5.10c
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
5.10c
Bryan told me it was named this because of the amount of chalk they used. They were mortified by the white mess they had made. Anyhow another example of how priorities have changed in the climbing world. It's a great pitch but it's not 5.11. Apr 26, 2007
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
This climb is fun - short but sweet - and it absolutely eats nuts and small cams. There are lots of rests/stances to place gear. Jun 5, 2009
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
  5.10d
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
  5.10d
This is a great climb. It doesn't involve any real crack climbing except at the very end, which therefore fits my style perfectly. There are some great finger locks right before the crux, but sport climbers can handle those easily.

I onsighted R.'s Crack right after I did this climb, and I think I can fairly say there is no way this is an 11b. This climb was more difficult during the hard parts, but I got the rp on my second try, and I am no where near a 5.11 trad climber. Jun 9, 2010
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
5.11-
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
5.11-
One of my favorites! I placed a bomber #2 C4 before the crux sequence. It was just a little below my feet when I grabbed the cool crystal thingy. May 23, 2011