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Routes in Turkey Rock

Brain Cramps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Front T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eastern Front, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiend, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Steve Cheyney, date unknown
Page Views: 109 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 31, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a pretty good climb with a bit of everything from face to OW.

Pick your way up some 'interesting' scrambling terrian past edges, ledges, and bushes, some of which are man-eating if you are not careful.

Arrive to the left of a large corner system on a ledge probably 50' above the base of the climbs 'Rastafarian' and 'Finger Lickin' Good' and at least that far to the left. A large, left-facing corner, that actually looks quite clean, looms over head.

The right face of this corner is split by a crack that splits a face just right of the obvious corner, twice curving up and left towards the corner, which likewise retreats inward, leaving you out on a splitter. Most of the climb is easier, but there are 3 slightly harder sections.

Engage in one harder section to step up and right onto a small ledge where you can access the crack. This is awkward, and it would be bad if you fell with no gear in, so consider having a gear belay set on the ledge system for the belayer before casting off. Climb up mostly hand-sized cracks for quite a while. The crack will curve left twice, both slightly harder sections that protect well, the second of these on smaller gear in the top of a crack which becomes flaring just before stepping into the offwidth corner (the true crux).
Up in the OW, move up a few feet and place a 4" can and then a 5" cam.
Seemingly good placements are available, but there is also some loose/bad rock in there and the feet out on the face are not terribly secure. Fight your way up the OW to the top, and belay on some gear that is a few meters back from the edge.

Walk/scramble off to the East back towards the notch that splits the approaches to the North/South face of this formation. Approach shoes are a great thing to have for this!

Location

This route lies up and left from 'Rastafarian' and 'Finger Lickin' Good' on the North side of Turkey Rock. There is an inset that starts up on a ledge system above the start of those routes. In this inset of rock, perhaps 50' higher, and 80' to the left, the left-facing wall on the right of a large dihedral holds a climb in the corner (Finger Crack), a climb splitting the face up to the hanging OW corner (Curving Crack) and a runout arete (The Naked Edge).

Protection

Gear from medium stoppers to 5" cam. Optional 6+" gear was not taken nor needed. Doubles from 2"-3.5" would be handy, particularly as they may be useful for the gear belay up top.

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