Avg: 3.7 from 246 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Skip Hamilton & Steve Cheyney, early 1970s (from CGNA)?|
|Page Views:||21,318 total · 92/month|
|Shared By:||Michael Walker on Oct 13, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1: The traditional start is in a dark chimney on the West side (5.7) just past the lowest point of the face, but this chimney is better used to identify a hand crack variation just to the right (very recommended). Begin with a small crack that angles right, leading to a bomber hand crack (5.8) charging straight up to a roof. The crack widens before reaching the roof (your big piece in the small pod) and get ready for the crux. Reach up to a jam above the small pod (5.9) and work via hand traverse left and escape from under the roof to another hand crack. The crack eases back and cruise to a good ledge.
P2: The first pitch was a satisfying hand crack, the second a delicate finger crack. From the ledge follow the cracks straight up the steep, open face above (5.9). The beginning of this pitch is fine climbing; tricky stems and thoughful, exposed progress leads back and forth up the dual cracks. Work around a small roof on the left, 5.6s on the face or tricky 5.8 along the crack. Belay up on the left on an exposed, delightful, small shelf.
P3: Climb the crack above the belay, following easier climbing along a left facing dihedral (5.7). Finish smartly with a small sampling of easy slab. Follow the line of least resistance to the right into a huge slot that leads to the summit.
Walk off to the East toward the pass between Turkey Rocks and Turkey Perch.