Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Skip Hamilton & Steve Cheyney, early 1970s (from CGNA)?
Page Views: 21,318 total · 92/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Oct 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

A varied climb of superb quality found on Turkey Rock's South Face. A fine introduction to South Platte offerings. From the Pass between Turkey Rocks and Turkey Perch, drop down and to the right, following the base of Turkey Rocks. The route starts on the West side of the South Face.

P1: The traditional start is in a dark chimney on the West side (5.7) just past the lowest point of the face, but this chimney is better used to identify a hand crack variation just to the right (very recommended). Begin with a small crack that angles right, leading to a bomber hand crack (5.8) charging straight up to a roof. The crack widens before reaching the roof (your big piece in the small pod) and get ready for the crux. Reach up to a jam above the small pod (5.9) and work via hand traverse left and escape from under the roof to another hand crack. The crack eases back and cruise to a good ledge.

P2: The first pitch was a satisfying hand crack, the second a delicate finger crack. From the ledge follow the cracks straight up the steep, open face above (5.9). The beginning of this pitch is fine climbing; tricky stems and thoughful, exposed progress leads back and forth up the dual cracks. Work around a small roof on the left, 5.6s on the face or tricky 5.8 along the crack. Belay up on the left on an exposed, delightful, small shelf.

P3: Climb the crack above the belay, following easier climbing along a left facing dihedral (5.7). Finish smartly with a small sampling of easy slab. Follow the line of least resistance to the right into a huge slot that leads to the summit.

Walk off to the East toward the pass between Turkey Rocks and Turkey Perch.

Protection

A standard rack to a #4.

Photos