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Routes in Turkey Rock

Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,788 total, 12/month
Shared By: TBD on Jun 25, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the "bolted" arete between Great White Crime and Vanishing Point. It can be TR'd from the anchor above Great White Crime, with the last bolt as a directional. Or, it can be lead if you have the guts, I currently do not.

Start by climbing up a thin seam that disappears below and to the right of the first bolt (it is also possible to climb/ solo the arete directly up to the first bolt). Good gear is available in the seam. Move left from the seam before the bolt and climb straight up past it. Continue straight up towards the second bolt, or move left to some larger holds. Either way, on lead this would be a heady runout in 5.10 territory with ground fall likely if you blow the second clip. The crux is between the second and third bolts on some thin sidepull edges and smears.

On TR, I really enjoyed the climbing on this route, definitely worth doing if you climb one of the other routes that share the bolted anchor. However for lead, the bolt spacing a somewhat odd in that there is 1 bolt for the first 50 or so feet and then 3 for the last 15 feet. I assume this was put up on lead and inconsistent as a consequence. A very bold and admirable effort if so. In my opinion, it would be a 2-3 star route if the last bolt was removed and one was placed between the first and second.

Protection

Four bolts and small gear for the seam at the start.

Photos

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Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
With a sling on the 2nd bolt, it feels like 5.9X between the 1st and 2nd bolt for someone who's 5 ft. tall. Great route! Oct 18, 2015
Nelson
FT Carson
  5.11b X
Nelson   FT Carson
  5.11b X
I think it was bolted on lead long run out on the easy turf, and bolt ladder on the tuff section. I really liked the climb or the top half any way. The bottom is run out, but if you climb 5.11+ it's no issue because the holds are huge. The real fun starts after you hit the second bolt steep side pulls on small crimps.
I also did a variation that started in a seam to the right of the climb, it ends below the hand crack top out for Great White Crime. Bring ballnuts and RPs for the start then place a yellow cam and go left to the second bolt for the sporty finish I would rate the variation 5.11C/D PG 13. Apr 6, 2009
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
5.11 PG13
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
5.11 PG13
The bolt spacing is nuts on this route. You can get a marginal stopper threaded thru a horizontal constriction between the 1st and 2nd bolt (I saw this on rap, I don't know if I would have found it trying to onsight the thing). Actually clipping the 2nd bolt is a pain, but then the next one is three feet away, go figure. Sep 23, 2007