Type: Trad
FA: unknown, probably Dunn, et. al.
Page Views: 4,744 total · 19/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Feb 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

Satyr's Asshole begins in a short crack about 10 or 15 feet to the left of Straw Turkey. Towards the end of this first crack, jog left to join another crack. Continue until this crack makes a sharp diagonal left (leading to anchors above Great White Crime). Judging by the amount of chalk I saw in the diagonal crack, many people have mistakenly deprived themselves of doing the crux of this route. Move RIGHT, across a face instead. Doing this will put you below the climb's namesake. Move upward into the steepening and widening crack and place a bomber 5 Friend at the beginning of some outstanding climbing. Easier climbing awaits about 10 feet above on a less than vertical crack. Continue on the crack moving right around a bulge at a well-chalked flake to the anchors. Rap from here with 2 ropes or continue to the top (5.7).

This is yet another low profile S. Platte classic. It includes face moves, crack climbing at almost every width and of course, beautiful granite. Thanks for reading another round of my "spraying under the guise of being informative."

Protection

The first (crux) pitch of this route is about 150' and shares the same rap anchors as P1 of Straw Turkey (use the ones 4' below the nest of webbing). Otherwise, the top can be reached at 5.7 and 2 more pitches for a walk-off. In addition to a standard rack, be sure to bring a #5 Friend.

Photos