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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
Note: The GPS coordinates for this location as shown on the map will take you to the trailhead not the location of the main crag. To access the main crag, utilize the Approach to Turkey Rocks.
This is the main crag in the Turkey Rock area. It has wonderful crack climbing and some scattered face climbing with routes up to 3 pitches in length mostly on its south face. The setting is beautiful, the cracks are plentiful, the difficulties are moderate, and the area is popular. At one point there was an entire guidebooklet devoted to this area with most of the routes on this rock. The granite is known for its coarseness. Taping may be considered for most. The walkoffs are straightforward. Enjoy.
For accurate directions to the approach to Turkey Rock, search for Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Do not park in or approach the crags from Turkey Rock Ranch Estates. There is no public parking and the locals do not take this well.
When you approach Turkey Rocks from the campground, you are walking up behind the formations. The trail goes to the top of the hill, and down towards the front of most of the climbs. At the top of the hill, (Looking downhill and away from the climbs) on the left is Turkey Perch. Down, and to the right is Turkey Rock. Turkey Tail is downhill, and left of Turkey Perch.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Direct Hit |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● Northern Comfort |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● Southern Comfort |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Route 902 |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● That's All You Get For Five… |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR | ||
| ● Dash and Thrangle |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad | ||
| ● Gobbler's Grunt |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Second Coming |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Turkey Challenge aka The Pro |
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Turkey Shoot |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Where Turkeys Dare |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Glen's Pancake |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR | ||
| ● Nightime Madness |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches | ||
| ● Chopping Block |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Jump Start |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
| ● Vanishing Point |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad | ||
| ● Stewart's Crack |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches | ||
| ● In Style, Out of Fashion |
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X Trad, Sport, TR | ||
| ● Great White Crime |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad | ||
| ● Satyr's Asshole |
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Tryptophane |
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad | ||
| ● Straw Turkey |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Brain Cramps |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad | ||
| ● Koto |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
| ● Brain Front |
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
| ● The Eastern Front |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
| ● Hallucinogenic Blues |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
| ● The Fiend |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
| ● Little Edward's Little Over… |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● Finger Crack |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
| ● Curving Crack Variation |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad | ||
| ● Rastafarian |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad | ||
| ● Finger Lickin' Good |
|
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● Wild Fire |
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad | ||
| ● Tofonareeker |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches |
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It is my understanding that all of the Pike national forest is closed due to the Hayman fire. this includes the Turkey rocks area. bummer. The south platte areas near Pine are all private land so they are still open.
Jul 11, 2002
Fort Collins, CO
He was sure to emphasize that the decision is a "fluid" one, so don't count on anything for sure. Check fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/ for press releases, especially as we approach the April 28th date. Apr 22, 2003
May 21, 2003
Here's the order from April 28th:
fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/hayres/c…
It basically says the rules are pretty much back to normal, just make sure you only park in designated parking areas, which are marked with signs. May 22, 2003
denver, co
Aspen, CO
Yee Haw! Mar 18, 2013
Golden, CO
Tucson, AZ
Bentonville, AR
Boulder, CO