PRINT: Rock Climb Vanishing Point, South Platte

Vanishing Point

5.10d, Trad,

Avg: 3.7 from 275 votes
FA: Earl Wiggins 1975
Colorado > S Platte > Turkey Rocks > Turkey Rock

Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

No access from the Turkey Rock Ranch Estates neighborhood.

Description

This is an awesome one pitch climb. It starts out kinda wide (fists), and then goes to a really nice finger crack over a bulge, to bolts. Excellent finger jams, and is located in the middle of the rock formation.

Protection

Standard rack with nuts, and Aliens.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Joe Crotty Leading Vanishing Point

Tyler Jones approaching the crux of the route.

At the crux.

Pursuing shadows.

A2 pulley injury and still cranking with 9 fingers.

High stepping to this hold and standing was the crux for me.<br>
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Photo by Paul Rezucha.

High stepping to this hold and standing was the crux for me. Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Nearing the end of the usable crack.<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Nearing the end of the usable crack. Photo by Paul Rezucha.

A few moves below the crux. It's about 5.9 up to this point.<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Rezucha.

A few moves below the crux. It's about 5.9 up to this point. Photo by Paul Rezucha.

She likes it!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward

This climb is totally sick!!! Footwork is the key to being successful on this route. If your ability is not up to leading at this grade. It is possible to climb nighttime madness variation (5.8) twenty feet to the left of Vanishing Point. From the first ledge it is possible to hook into Vanishing Points anchors. Another good sicky is Great White Crime (5.11a) right of Vanishing Point. Jan 1, 2001

Chris Fisher

The finger crack on the first third of the route is of the best quality. Bomber finger locks up to the crux. The crux was difficult and required just the right foot work. After the bulge the crack opens to hands. Makes a great TR for aspiring 5.10 climbers like myself. Jul 4, 2001

Anonymous Coward

Ah yes, Jimmy Dunn has done it with one hand behind his back.... Jul 6, 2001

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

Think crack with your hands and face with your feet; otherwise, it will feel harder. Excellent route. Mar 12, 2002

Matt Juth
Ridgway, CO

A blue Alien is a lifesaver through the crux. Don't be discouraged, some of the founders of this area (who first did this climb 20 years ago) still hang on this before firing Great White Crime. Jul 25, 2003

TBD	[Hide Comment] Great climbing, quality the entire way. Jul 12, 2004

nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO

Don't waste time at the crux! I had more difficulty with this than with GREAT WHITE CRIME. Oct 9, 2005

Steven Lucarelli
Izola, SI

5.10d

Fun climb with bomber pro. Great finger locks all the way up, but pay attention to your feet. I thought this climb was slightly easier than Great White Crime. May 8, 2006

Hamish Gowans
Golden, CO

5.10a

One climbing companion, who came from a Rumney/Shelf Road/Hip-Hop background, climbed it on all cams. After lowering, he proclaimed "I'm so over nuts!" So I climbed it next on all nuts in retort. After getting the moves wired, this route became our warmup at Turkey, and I think it's easier than Quivering Quill and comparable to the cruxes on Satyr's Asshole or Straw Turkey. Nov 9, 2006

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO

On TR at the end of a long day, this was much easier, and less steep, than it looked. One face move at the crux. I may tell a different story when/if I come back to lead it, but perhaps not, as there are good stances just before and just after that one crux move. Nov 9, 2006

Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado

5.10d

This one never gets old. Nov 9, 2008

Adam bloc
San Golderino, Calirado

5.10c

Great stances and highly featured granite make this feel like a more sporty face outing than it would appear at the base. Jan 1, 2017

Josh Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO

5.10a

Don't be scared by the grade, this thing climbs like sport and protects wonderfully.

.10a? Aug 27, 2020