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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Tim Fisher
Page Views: 650 total · 15/month
Shared By: S Tart on Jul 2, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Tim Fisher gets a big thumbs up for this one. Windigo is a classic Moores Wall line that delivers the whole package with big emphasis on adventure and intimidation. This is the kind of route where you better have a few tricks in your bag. Physical, emotional and technical expertise required.

Windigo is a 3 pitch, 200' traditional line that ascends the left side of the magnificent Indian Head Tower. All routes on the tower are in and of themselves, incredible lines. Windigo can be done in two pitches but good rope work (via edges and drag) is necessary and climber communication is difficult.

Disclosure:
This is a serious business route. The rock is 'very' steep with plenty of jagged edges so falls could be potentially dangerous. And there is not an abundance of gear, so don't pass any up.
Be very strong at the grade.

Location

Windigo starts off a massive ledge system 80' above the ground. The easiest approach is by climbing Lark's Tongue, Nevermore or Indian Head P1. The original first pitch to the ledge, climbs the corner 15' right of Jugger Head but probably hasn't been climbed in a very long time.

Start on the largest part of the ledge, to the left side of the Indian Head. Climb straight up the center of the super white, bulging quartzite to a stance 30' up. Prepare for the business and ascend into steep terrain through jagged edges, tiered roofs, tough gear, a vicious pump and Elvis impersonations. (You think I'm kidding!) Continue on to your first reprieve at a set of good stances below the roof system. Set up a trad belay here and bring up your second. The next pitch is shorter yet still longer than it looks via a layered headwall above the roof. The last two pitches can be done as one long pitch and is splendid but the follower should be fairly strong as there will be no visual contact and falls with rope stretch will leave the second suspended out away from the rock. Set up a trad anchor directly at the top and bring up your second. Walk to the first tree and rap 50' down the same side as Windigo onto a very bushy ledge. Rap again to the starting ledge and rap to the ground via Nevermore anchors.

Protection

A full rack from 00 to 3" cams and mostly smaller to medium nuts. Double up on 1" cams. You'll need either two 2.5's or a 2.5 and a 3" cam for the belay station at the very top.

Photos

Robert Hutchins
  5.11 R
Robert Hutchins  
  5.11 R
Great climb, and has just the filters it needs to keep those not up to the task off of it. One of the wilder and more exposed climbs at Moores. I would disagree with one part of the recommendation though. After the opening, this should be done as one pitch. Far more satisfying, and no real reason to break it up.

Matt, I was told the opening corner was 5.8, but I would recommend treating it like a 5.9. I don't remember anything too "chossy", but I wouldn't take it lightly. It has slick footing, and you have to use some runners to avoid rope drag. This equals big fall potential on some sections for both leader and follower, if I remember correctly. It's been 15 years since I've climbed the pitch though, so I'm a little rusty on the specific details. Worth playing on for a solid 5.10 climber, but might be a little exciting for a 5.8 or 5.9 climber. Aug 6, 2015
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
Cool photo of a rad looking route. I was hoping for some more info on the original first pitch though. Since I'm not up to the scary/tough upper bit, I've been casting glances at that crack as I climbed in the Juggernaut/Juggerhead area recently. I've heard it goes around 5.9 but looks like it's got a few sketchy chockstones partway up and the final stretch might be a bit chossy? Curious, given how it's such a cool looking crack for much of the route which we don't get a lot of at Moore's. Jul 3, 2014

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